Santiago de Compostela - a Little Overwhelming!

The headlamps of two lost pilgrims at 5:30AM

My alarm rang at 5AM.  But after spending a good portion of the day in the sun I quickly reset it for 5:45AM.  With my phone in hand a saw an email from Richard that said he and his group started walking at 5AM and it was splendid walking in the moonlight and even better arriving in Compostela before the crowds of pilgrims.  Well, that was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly got ready and was walking in the dark by 5:30AM.  I was not alone.  I immediately encountered two other pilgrims who were off the Way so I got them going in the right direction.

The moonlight breaks through the fog and clouds.

Walking in the moonlight with just a headlamp is more beautiful than challenging.  I was walking before the birds got up so it was the most quiet yet.  The moonlight painted a tapestry path on the tightly packed forest floor.  I passed about six people before the sun was up and I had reached the streets of the bordering towns of Santiago.  The weather could not have been better.  I left with only a T-shirt.  The beauty of the rising sun only added to my excitement.

The sun rises on the final day of the Camino.

I only stopped once on the mountain just overlooking the city- at the Monument of Gozo which commemorates pilgrims on the Camino.  Two of which were St. Francis whom tradition holds came in the 1200's and Blessed John Paul the Great who helped in the resurgence of the Camino with his visit in the 1980's.

Arriving at the outskirts of Santiago.

By nine o'clock or so there were loads of pilgrims who were on the roads joining me from the various albergues and camping sites I passed.  The paths were well worn as I joined the parade of pilgrims from passed years.  Reaching the city limit there were some more monuments and a very well marked path leading us on.  There were markers in the pavement, street signs and of course pilgrims preceding me.  I could feel my pace getting faster with excitement.

The Last Trail of the Camino Frances.

I could also sense that Santiago was somehow my city.  I began five weeks ago in France and walked 500 miles.  That persistence and perseverance; all those pilgrims' stamps; the continuous devotion and Faith through the centuries; the humility and appreciation for God and His handiwork - all somehow gained me citizenship in a place I've never been and yet walked its streets for over a month.

Monument, Monte del Gozo

Upon entering the old city there were cobble stones and historic buildings and churches as the Way lead me to the Apostle.  Bagpipes blasting, street artists and vendors setting up for their day's work. I entered the Cathedral at 9:35AM still perspiring.  I visited the Blessed Sacrament and then the relics of Saint James, the Greater with backpack still on my shoulders.  Then off to my hotel.

Freeze commemorating John Paul the Great's  Pilgrimage to Compostela,
Monument of Monte del Gozo.

I concelebrated at the Pilgrims' Mass at noon where I met two Holy Cross Fathers:  Bill and Tom.  The Mass was packed, standing room only.  There was the Bishop-emeritus of Verona as the celebrant and I had the English part of the Eucharistic Prayer.  After Communion the great censer, the Botifumero, swung almost from ceiling to ceiling.   It was impressive.  The cathedral erupted in thunderous applause when the attendant grabbed the flaming brazier bringing the incensation to a close.

How the excitement is building.

Following the Mass I went out.  The sun was shinning so perfectly.  I ran into Martin from Madrid whom I had seen since O'Cerbriero and other familiar faces before the Cathedral.  I then went to sit at a plaza to see who else would pass in the chaos.  I was sitting at a table when two people I had yet to meet called me over.  Angelica from Coventry and Paidaric from Cork had recognized from the Mass.  They were gracious to buy me a few beers and even more gracious with their chat.  We talked about the Camino, certainly.  But we also discussed more; including what's next after making the Camino.  Something we each need to ponder.

First glimpse of the Cathedral.

After they left I ran into Bruce from Louisiana who invited me to a dinner in the evening.  Then a little lunch and I went to a small church that was open all day for my Holy Hour before going back to the hotel to escape the heat and get a little nap.

Interior of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

My greatest surprise was in the evening.   After just walking around and getting my bearings  I ran into Simon and Selen from Switzerland.  I lost them about 10-14 days ago as they were walking some large distances.  They looked great with their pilgrim tans.  And they leave tomorrow to return to work Monday.  We quickly sat down to catch up.  I was so happy to get a picture and their emails.  We laughed telling stories and also were tangibly touched with gratitude for the opportunity these past weeks.

The tomb of the Apostle.

I had to leave them to join "the boys" for a celebratory dinner.  Bruce has a friend whose brother (from Santiago) was brining us to a local restaurant.  Besides Bruce there was John (Illinois), Stephen from Australia and even Richard from London, so there were familiar faces.  I also got to meet there a handful of others from the States including a deacon and a seminarian.  As great at the evening was, at 11PM when we got the check I was ready to go; ready for bed.

Bruce with the lovely ladies from outside of Calgary, Canada.

As I returned to the hotel, they went out for drinks.  We agreed to meet after the Pilgrims' Mass tomorrow.

The cathedral glowing in the afternoon sun.

It was a long day and a little overwhelming.  Thankfully the Camino lasts a lifetime.  The People, Places and Purpose I can take it in slowly over the years to come.

Selen & Simon looking awfully tanned after a visit to Finisterra .