A Long Hall to Hontanas

Detail of Puerta Santa Maria, Burgos

I set out early (6AM) after my two night stop over in Burgos.  Originally I was planning to stay at Hornillios del Camino.   But once I got there.   I was not impressed.   I decided to hunker down and make a total trip of 21 miles to Hontanas.

Hontanas did not have much more but it was a "Pilgrim's Paradise."  There were 3 alburgues with over 150 bed total.  There were grocery stores, bars- al the facilities a modern day pilgrim needs except Wifi which was down.

Finally out of Greater Burgos.

The journey was taxing with some hills and 21 miles I think is the longest I have walked so far.  It was done under threatening clouds.  I walked pretty much the whole way on my own - passing and being passed as the occasion merited.  Here I was introduced to some of the mesetas of Spain.   I will be with them for a while.

For a difficult as its length was, I was rewarded at the end of my journey.  Just after I checked into my albergue and finished my shower I heard this rushing water which I thought were more servicios on a third floor.   It wasn't.   It was the sound of a tremendous downpour.  The village built on a hill had water cascading through the streets.  It was unbelievable.   I was so lucky I was undercover.

The rolling green vistas of the meseta.

Others weren't unfortunately.   They came in looking like extras in a disaster movie.  You could only feel bad for them.  Luckily at least my albergue had washers and dryers.

After the downpour people started to come out and share war stories of where they were when the heavens opened.   I met up with the Virginia Tech Twins  who also had made it dry.

Ruins of a 15c Pilgrims' Hostal.

I had my main meal and a real problem:  Mass.  The church is closed on Thursdays and Fridays.  I could say Mass surely, but where?  There was no space in the albergue.  With the help of a Spanish couple who have been going to Mass at the various places they found me hotel dinning room where we had a very intimate bi-lingual Mass for three!  It was wonderful.  They had a daily Mass book and did the readings and I had my Ibreviary prayers.

After Mass it was an early night after a long day.  The only consolation is tomorrow's walk is 12k less.  I can sleep in and have breakfast!