Ponferrada and the Knights Templar

What a Mess!

As impressive as the mountain were upon my arrival yesterday afternoon they were as unfriendly through the night and in the morning.  In the afternoon a storm blew in.  It was windy, rainy and noisy through the night as the albergue El Convento was buffeted by Mother Nature.  The good news was that the rains ended by morning.  The bad news is that the fog or clouds remained.

For a moment Mother Nature reveals the Beauty of the trail.

I was planing to leave about 6:30-6:45 for the 30K trip to Ponferrada but Mother Nature had different plans.  There were about 15 of us who had to wait in the coffee bar until the weather improved and we could see where we were going.   It was that bad.  Finally at 7:15 a group of us set out.  First there was a small climb and then came the descent:  3,000 feet.

The Hermitage, Riego de Ambros. 

You would think going downhill is easier.   It is not!  It killed my legs especially my right knee.   I was in pain for hours and I think the whole world passed me along the way.  The trail was beautiful.  It was a natural path through the mountains but it came at a price.  These paths are usually mountain run off lanes.  Luckily for the most part they were dry.   But they were very rocky which can twist ankles and knees.  My guidebook continuously reminds us of the perils of descent because your weight allows for more "bad" things to happen.

Descending into the village of Molinaseca.

The other problem that slowed everyone down was the visibility.   It was simply horrible.  It was cold and damp.  I had both jackets on.  For a moment or two the sum broke through but that was short lived.  As I descended further the vistas became more beautiful.   It was great to see the town of Molinaseca as it was just 7K from my destination.  What I thought would be a six hour walk turned into eight hours from hell.  I am so glad that it is done.

Plaza Ayutamiento, Ponferrada.

Ponferrada is a lovely city with about 65,000 people in both an old and new city.  The most significant monument of the city is the Knights' Castile.  For about a week now the Knights Templar presence has been felt on the Camino and their "sword-logo" widespread.  The Knights among other things supported and protected pilgrims on the Camino.  By the time siesta was over the sun was out.  So I was able to get some good pictures.  The old city was pretty empty (though it is a Wednesday).

Templars' Castile, Ponferrada.

I found a cloistered convent Concepcionistas Franciscanas (a congregation I never heard of) for my Holy Hour and concelebrated Mass at the Basilica of the Encina.  While priests along the Camino have been very welcoming as a rule, Fr. Juan was extremely gracious at the parish.

Gate of the clock, Ponferrada
(Medieval prison is on the right, Monastery on the left.)

Tomorrow is a 30K walk though thankfully pretty level.  The weather looks questionable.

Sanctuary of the Basilica de la Encina.