Najera - It was a very good day!

Pilgrims' Monument in Logrono

I was up early to leave Logrono and head to Nájera.  It's about a 19 mile go with some good hills so the sooner you start, the better it is (for me at least).  But I didn't get a good start.  At 6:30AM with the sun yet to rise I couldn't find the Camino!  I somehow got turned around.  Twice!  Once on my own and then the second time following two Spanish women whom I quickly left when I saw a young german guy shooting down a side street.   He was the key out  of the place and soon enough there were a gaggle of pilgrims in tow at least to the city limits.

Approaching Navarette

The more ancient part of Logrono has seen better days though they try to keep up the very touristy area.  But the apartments and parks we passed leaving were gorgeous.   So I was on my way!  There was basically two towns that were en route.  One was Navarrete.  It was a beautiful little town perfect to have a coffee in.  As I mentioned earlier I like to leave early and get to the next town by lunchtime which in Spain is 1:30-3PM.  That is precisely what happened.  I was in the albergue by 1PM to wash up and rest before dinner.

Remnants of a church and pilgrims' hostel outside of  Navarette.

I put on my "post-walking" attire which is shorts and sandals, a long sleeve shirt and my rain coat and went to find a quiet place for lunch.   I always try to get away from the albergues and the tourist parts of the village if possible.  I found a place that just had one other table taken at 2PM.   I ordered the "Pilgrim's Menu" and had a wonderful meal (Spaghetti with Bolognese Sauce, Steak with Fries, Ice Cream and Red Wine).  Almost all restaurants have a daily menu (1st, 2nd, Desert, bread, and water or wine) for a set price.  The "Pilgrim's Menu" gives us a discount.  So today the weekly daily menu is 10euros; weekend is 13euros.  The "Pilgrim's Menu" is only 9euros.  That $5 or $1.50 discount does help wen most of us eat one meal out for 35 days or so.

The route passes Ventosa as its parish church sparkles in the breaking clouds.

But I said it was a good day.  While I was eating the restaurant began to fill up.   Next to me two men sat down and one of them recognized I was a pilgrim.  He said some things in Spanish that I tried to answer about where I started and the terrible spring.   He wished me good meal (Bon Provecho).   And I could hear him saying stuff about the Camino to the other person at table.  When I went to the bar to pay, the man said my meal was taken care of.  The older man had paid for it.   It was a good day.

Historic Najera as seen from the bridge.

Actually, I said "it was a very good day."  Today was the first day of my walking that there was no precipitation along the way.  No moisture got on my glasses.  I never took out my rain coat.   Not a drop.   Now it threatened all day and looked awfully ominous but no drops hit me.  I cant speak about before or after I passed.

Najera was a royal city in the 11th & 12th centuries:   the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre before it expanded.  There are about 7,000 people living here.   And of course they have a river, the Najerilla.  It also had a prestigious abbey that was eventually all but taken from the Church.  The church proper remains as it is the burial place of several of the ancient monarchs.  I plan on concelebrating the Mass there at 7PM.

Najera against the imposing mountain backdrop.
Notice the small cross at the summit. 

Tomorrow the walk is only 14 miles to the next stop and I assure you I will scout the route out of town  before or after Mass tonight.

It was a very good day.