Sunday, June 16, 2013

Hospital de Oribgo - Nothing like a Sunday!


"Jousting Grounds" (if that even means anything) before the bridge.
How Don Suero smiles upon us!




I left at 6AM well before Sunrise at 6:45.  But another beautiful thing about Leon is that it is the best "marked" with yellow arrows of all the larger cities so far.  I left some extra time in case I got lost like in Burgos but had no problem.   I passed most of the city and suburb before people even woke up and it was relatively flat so the original 22K turned into 37K!  The longest distance covered to date so far.  Because it was flat and I was moving well I made it to the village of Hospital de Órbigo just after noon.


Church of St. John the Baptist, Hospital de Orbigo


The village is famous for its 13th century bridge and Don Suero de Quixote.  Perhaps the very man Cervantes based his Don Quixote on and I had the pleasure of playing in Eighth Grade in Holy Innocents as the "Man of La Mancha."  Back in 1434 poor Suero got turned down by a Lady in waiting and "to restore his honor" he would not let any knight pass him on the bridge to see her.  Well over 300 tried.  And he defeated them all at which time he decided that was enough.   With pride and honor restored he made the pilgrimage to Compostela to thank the Apostle for his good fortune and his restored honor.  Each year to this day the town hosts jousting matches beneath the bridge to remember Don Suero.



A young pilgrim-biciclista rehydrating at a local fountain.

The 13th century bridge (and it's in great shape today!) was built on the foundations of a much older Roman bridge which had been used by pilgrims.  It links the villages of Puente de Orbigo and Hospital Obrigo.  The first gets its name from the bridge, the second from the knights (Knights Hospitaller of St. John) who took up residence on this side of the banks.  As I write this from the Hospital side, I can see (and hear the bands) a festival taking place on the Puente side at the Church of Santa Maria.  Several folks and families are heading that way as the bell are ringing.  If I just didn't walk 25 miles I would go and check it out.  I hope you understand.  [I later found out the Mass and procession was in honor of St. Anthony {June 13} & St. John the Baptist {June 24}.]


Church of Santa Maria, Puente de Orbigo
with puente in foreground. 

The village has about 1,100 people and a school besides a church etc.   So it is a hub.  The parish is St. John the Baptist - one of the Knights' patrons.  While sitting by a patio near the bridge, I saw the Irish couple pass by:  Jeanne and Dennis .   Dennis actually saw me first and called up.  They are staying here tonight as well before ending their Camino Tuesday in Astorga.  In fact last night I ran into Richard, one of the "London Lads," in a crowded square in Leon.   It's amazing how many people you begin to know and recognize on the way.


The 13th century bridge is one of the longest of its period.

Tomorrow is a shorter stint to Astorga because I did so much today thus I get breakfast here.  Unfortunately the rains are also predicted to return.   I am meeting the Dublin couple for drinks before dinner tonight.   I had a lovely main meal today.   That is plenty.  So we will just chat some before they eat.


I found the smallest statue to date of St. James, Peregino,
at the Restaurant Los Angeles during lunch. 

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