O Cebreiro - O'Connor!

Foggy view of the valley during the ascent.

I left at 6AM for the long climb up the mountains to O Cebreiro.  There were three choices.  I took the easiest.  I knew the climb of 800 meters would do me in so I started before sunrise.  The first part was by the road but then came the ascent.  To be honest it was not as bad I thought it would be.  Leaving Villafranca it was sunny and beautiful but I literally climbed into the clouds.  When I arrived at the top I could just barely see 20 feet in front of me.

Bell tower, Church of Santa Maria, O Cebreiro.

Galicia has the same root as the Celtic people of Ireland.  But once the Romans arrived and the unification of the Iberian Peninsular those Celtic roots were lost except in remote places like O Cebreiro.  Arriving in the village at 4, 300 feet and maybe like 50 residents (honest!) I thought I entered Ireland.   It was also like 50 degrees!  There was fog and a damp mist, thatched roofs and fires in the hearth.   If that was not enough there was Galician (Celtic) music playing on the bagpipes.  Deja vu.

The valley upon my arrival.

I was looking for O'Connors, McKevitts and McNultys!  What I found was a wonderful Celtic Inn for lunch.  What drew me in simply was the warmth.  The half door was open and it was warm inside!  Upon entering, the fire was going and on top of the stove were pots of various stews and Galician soups that not only smelled good but warmed the place with the condensation dripping in the windows.   I had a beer and then some soup.  Heavenly.

The Tabernacle with the reliquaries above,
Church of Santa Maria, O Cebreiro.

Next to me at the bar were Bruce andVincent.   Bruce is from Louisiana and just graduated Catholic U.   Vincent is a pensioner from Madrid.  We began chatting.  Wonderful men.   Filled with the Faith.  Latter they would introduce me to the rest of their posse:  John who just graduated from Notre Dame and Stephen from Australia.  I spent most of my afternoon with them at the inn.

The valley under cooperating conditions.

Like Ireland, O Cebreio seemed like it was about family.  As I was at the inn I saw the London Lads and the four girls from the Lutheran College in Tacoma.  The Korean (I thought he was Chinese) man who crossed the Pyrenees with me also popped his head in.  The Carolina crowd (North and South were outside enjoying the afternoon sun as well.  Other familiar faces filled the inn as did the sun that began to burn off the cloud and mist to give us a wonderful view from the mountain.

Thatched houe in the village.

While the church in O Cebreiro is special in that it is the oldest church and building still intact on the Caminio - from the 9th century.  There is also a Eucharistic Miracle associated with the church of Santa Maria la Real.  In a very severe snowstorm in the 1400's, a priest reprimanded a peasant worker for coming to Mass in like 9 feet of snow:  "You are jeopardizing the livelihood of your family by coming here in this weather for just a piece of bread!"  Well, during the consecration the Host became human flesh and the wine became human blood. Not only was the Faith of the peasant greater than the faith of the priest, the miracle also reaffirmed the teaching of transubstantiation.  After Queen Isabella  made the Camino and stayed in the town, she made sure there were proper reliquaries for the Flesh and Blood that remain over the Tabernacle to this day.

Camino Marker entering O Cebreiro.

Lastly, regarding the church it is the resting place of Father Elias Sampedro who worked so hard to bring back the Camino for modern pilgrims and not only preserve the route we walk but he had the vision that the more accessible the Camino was to walk for modern pilgrims the more would do it.  He came up with the idea of the yellow arrow that you have seen in previous posts.  The fact that I am not in Luxembourg is a tribute as to how well his system has turned out!

Bust of Father Sampedro in the church yard.

Because of the Eucharistic Miracle and the work of the Franciscans who now staff it,  Santa Maria has been the most prayerful church on the Camino.  Mass was at 7PM and I was privileged to offer it for Owen Brady, one of our Parish Trustee's, on the first anniversary of his death.  I couldn't think of a better place to do so.  Owen would have loved the "Celtic Flavor" as well a the Eucharistic Miracle aspect.   I can't tell you how many times I would catch him praying before the Eucharistic Lord in Our church.

View of the village from the albergue.

At the Mass I met an Italian Franciscan who knew a priest from NYC that I know:  Father Ray Frias, O. Cap..   He was so excited that he sent him a text message!

An afternoon view of the valley from the mountain top.

I always think of Ireland about friends and family.  I guess I should start thinking that way about Galicia and the Camino.

Heather on the church steeple enjoying the afternoon sun.