Settling Down in Santiago

Interior of the Cathedral.

With the excitement and relief of finishing the walk and arriving in Santiago behind me a day, Friday was both strange yet very relaxing.  I went to the Pilgrim’s Office to receive my “Compostela.”  It is a document to confirm that I walked the Camino.  In years past it would entitle the pilgrim to certain privileges.  Today, it is a nice keepsake and I will hold on to it.  At the office I saw the two Camino advocates who bought me drinks after my first day in Santiago.

Campino de Ferradura, Santiago.

It was also the feast of Ss. Peter and Paul, “the other Apostles.”  I went again and concelebrated the Pilgrims’ Mass at the Cathedral.  I met two priests from San Antonio, Texas who were with a group on pilgrimage to the shrines of Europe.  While there were great crowds, it was not celebrated with the Solemnity I was hoping for.  Obviously Compostela is not Rome.

Pictured with Notre Dame John.

After the Mass I met some of the young people who have “adopted” me and we went out for a hearty lunch at one of the few non- Spanish restaurants around.  Way too much food for “peregrinos” who are not walking 18 miles a day, but we tried our best.  John, one of the guys who just graduated from Notre Dame is the secret weapon that seems to eat everything that would go to waste.  I marvel at how he does it and can’t understand how he looks so fit.

Convent of San Domingos de Bonaval.

After a little rest at the hotel and a little prayer at a church near my hotel, I went to the Spanish rail office to get my reservations for my train travels the next week or so.  It was great to do so before hand and the woman was very helpful.

The Municipal Palace with the Cathedral in background.

Before dinner I went to the Cathedral to hear the Confessions of some of the English-speaking pilgrims I had met along the way.  I felt privileged that they had asked me to do so.  I also reserved a chapel for a small group Mass Sunday morning.

Rocky leads his pack out of the Cathedral Plaza.

After taking care of things of the soul, I took care of things of the body.   I had a marvelous dinner with Richard from London.  I managed to find a restaurant that accommodates vegans and carnivores.  It was a quiet evening and again he is great chat.

Returning to the Cathedral Plaza there were still hundreds if not thousands of people gathered at 10:30PM.  Before heading off to the hotel I paused a bit with a gathering crowd to hear two street artists singing opera.  The music and setting were almost magical.  I couldn't help but hum some of the familiar melodies for the rest of the evening.

Bidding Farewell to Martin (center in blue).

Sunday morning began with Mass at the Cathedral.  I celebrated Mass in English in one of the small chapels near St. James' tomb for about ten of the English Pilgrims I have come to know.  Being at the Cathedral before the tourists arrived just reinforced that this whole endeavor is rooted in prayer and striving for union with the Living God.

Sunday in the Park with the Boys.

After Mass I joined Bruce and John for a fancy American Breakfast at the Parador Hotel near the Cathedral.  Delicious would be an understatement.  After breakfast we met another Pilgrim for coffee before he returned home.  The rest of the day I spent with Richard and John as we talked up a storm.  We were joined by others on and off before some ice cream and a walk in the park.

Pictured with Eric, Bruce and Richard.

As the sun lowered on the horizon, I said good bye to Richard, John, Bruce and Eric.  I can honestly say they were very much part of my Camino and I was all the more enriched by them.  I also left feeling positive that there are such fine young people out there.

Cathedral as seen from the Paseo dos Leonis.

Tomorrow I begin a new Camino as I leave Santiago.  I know I do so, changed.

Santiago Strange

Statue of Santiago Peregrino, detail on Cathedral Exterior

There is a strange feeling in the streets of Santiago.  I was not aware of it yesterday with my excitement and exhaustion.  It is a feeling of uncertainty.

Crowds Gathering Before the Cathedral.

For pilgrims who have been walking for a month, it's strange to have nothing to do.  For others who have walked from place to place, getting a bus or train out of Santiago can be quite daunting.  For people who made friendships along the Camino, the separation can bring much sadness.  And for those returning to the work place, the return can be all too abrupt.

Rocky Made It!
After 500 miles this pooch takes a well deserved rest.

But Santiago is not the goal of the Camino.  It never was!

The goal of the Camino is to appreciate every moment God gives us in life.  The people and places; the challenges and victories.  The Camino is a journey;  that journey is life.  For the pilgrim on the road the goal was not reaching Santiago as much as how, with whom and why we traveled each day.  Now that we have venerated his relics and seen the bottifumero swing above his tomb the journey continues to wherever we go next but hopefully each continues the steps a changed individual.

Richard and John join me for a photo before the cathedral.

There is a strange feeling in the streets of Santiago.  And yet the uncertainty is diluted by the next feet to celebrate their accomplishments and enter the Cathedral.  And as they do others Camino-forth from Santiago to share what they experienced and learned along the Way of St. James.  Just as James first learned in his journeys with He who is the Way, the Truth and the Life.

Facade of Major Seminary Building, Santiago de Compostela

In Memoriam

As I arrive at the relics of Saint James I reflect on so much and so many.  But I want to recall some of the people who ended their earthly pilgrimage on the Camino.  As I walked the 500 miles from France I came across the names and places where people actually died.  Please help me remember them.  These are jut a few of their many markers.

Eternal Rest, Grant Unto Them, O Lord.
And May Perpetual Light Shine Upon Them.

May The Rest in Peace.  Amen.

May Their Souls and the Souls of All the Faithful Departed Rest in Peace.  Amen

Santiago de Compostela - a Little Overwhelming!

The headlamps of two lost pilgrims at 5:30AM

My alarm rang at 5AM.  But after spending a good portion of the day in the sun I quickly reset it for 5:45AM.  With my phone in hand a saw an email from Richard that said he and his group started walking at 5AM and it was splendid walking in the moonlight and even better arriving in Compostela before the crowds of pilgrims.  Well, that was all the inspiration I needed.  I quickly got ready and was walking in the dark by 5:30AM.  I was not alone.  I immediately encountered two other pilgrims who were off the Way so I got them going in the right direction.

The moonlight breaks through the fog and clouds.

Walking in the moonlight with just a headlamp is more beautiful than challenging.  I was walking before the birds got up so it was the most quiet yet.  The moonlight painted a tapestry path on the tightly packed forest floor.  I passed about six people before the sun was up and I had reached the streets of the bordering towns of Santiago.  The weather could not have been better.  I left with only a T-shirt.  The beauty of the rising sun only added to my excitement.

The sun rises on the final day of the Camino.

I only stopped once on the mountain just overlooking the city- at the Monument of Gozo which commemorates pilgrims on the Camino.  Two of which were St. Francis whom tradition holds came in the 1200's and Blessed John Paul the Great who helped in the resurgence of the Camino with his visit in the 1980's.

Arriving at the outskirts of Santiago.

By nine o'clock or so there were loads of pilgrims who were on the roads joining me from the various albergues and camping sites I passed.  The paths were well worn as I joined the parade of pilgrims from passed years.  Reaching the city limit there were some more monuments and a very well marked path leading us on.  There were markers in the pavement, street signs and of course pilgrims preceding me.  I could feel my pace getting faster with excitement.

The Last Trail of the Camino Frances.

I could also sense that Santiago was somehow my city.  I began five weeks ago in France and walked 500 miles.  That persistence and perseverance; all those pilgrims' stamps; the continuous devotion and Faith through the centuries; the humility and appreciation for God and His handiwork - all somehow gained me citizenship in a place I've never been and yet walked its streets for over a month.

Monument, Monte del Gozo

Upon entering the old city there were cobble stones and historic buildings and churches as the Way lead me to the Apostle.  Bagpipes blasting, street artists and vendors setting up for their day's work. I entered the Cathedral at 9:35AM still perspiring.  I visited the Blessed Sacrament and then the relics of Saint James, the Greater with backpack still on my shoulders.  Then off to my hotel.

Freeze commemorating John Paul the Great's  Pilgrimage to Compostela,
Monument of Monte del Gozo.

I concelebrated at the Pilgrims' Mass at noon where I met two Holy Cross Fathers:  Bill and Tom.  The Mass was packed, standing room only.  There was the Bishop-emeritus of Verona as the celebrant and I had the English part of the Eucharistic Prayer.  After Communion the great censer, the Botifumero, swung almost from ceiling to ceiling.   It was impressive.  The cathedral erupted in thunderous applause when the attendant grabbed the flaming brazier bringing the incensation to a close.

How the excitement is building.

Following the Mass I went out.  The sun was shinning so perfectly.  I ran into Martin from Madrid whom I had seen since O'Cerbriero and other familiar faces before the Cathedral.  I then went to sit at a plaza to see who else would pass in the chaos.  I was sitting at a table when two people I had yet to meet called me over.  Angelica from Coventry and Paidaric from Cork had recognized from the Mass.  They were gracious to buy me a few beers and even more gracious with their chat.  We talked about the Camino, certainly.  But we also discussed more; including what's next after making the Camino.  Something we each need to ponder.

First glimpse of the Cathedral.

After they left I ran into Bruce from Louisiana who invited me to a dinner in the evening.  Then a little lunch and I went to a small church that was open all day for my Holy Hour before going back to the hotel to escape the heat and get a little nap.

Interior of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

My greatest surprise was in the evening.   After just walking around and getting my bearings  I ran into Simon and Selen from Switzerland.  I lost them about 10-14 days ago as they were walking some large distances.  They looked great with their pilgrim tans.  And they leave tomorrow to return to work Monday.  We quickly sat down to catch up.  I was so happy to get a picture and their emails.  We laughed telling stories and also were tangibly touched with gratitude for the opportunity these past weeks.

The tomb of the Apostle.

I had to leave them to join "the boys" for a celebratory dinner.  Bruce has a friend whose brother (from Santiago) was brining us to a local restaurant.  Besides Bruce there was John (Illinois), Stephen from Australia and even Richard from London, so there were familiar faces.  I also got to meet there a handful of others from the States including a deacon and a seminarian.  As great at the evening was, at 11PM when we got the check I was ready to go; ready for bed.

Bruce with the lovely ladies from outside of Calgary, Canada.

As I returned to the hotel, they went out for drinks.  We agreed to meet after the Pilgrims' Mass tomorrow.

The cathedral glowing in the afternoon sun.

It was a long day and a little overwhelming.  Thankfully the Camino lasts a lifetime.  The People, Places and Purpose I can take it in slowly over the years to come.

Selen & Simon looking awfully tanned after a visit to Finisterra .

Ruah in Rua: Is it all a matter of the Spirit?

Pilgrims enjoying the shade in front of the Municipal Building, Pino.

As I walked into town for Mass at Saint Eulalia Parish, more commonly called the Church of the Conch because it has a giant painted shell overlooking the sanctuary  I realized I am not staying in O Pino proper but a small village beside it:  Rua.  I could not help but be drawn to the first book of the Bible which speak of the Ruah as a the life giving Spirit.  Isn't that what all of us are receiving on the Camino?  A newness of life?

These little lambs were literally in a garden in town.

I actually ended up concelebrating two Masses.  The first was in Italian and the following one was in Spanish.  I guess it was just the sheer numbers who are in town but the church was pretty filled for both celebrations.  It was great especially the Italian.

Church of Saint Eulalia, Pino.

On the way home I got my orange for dinner then got my clean clothes and paid my bill.  I want a fresh start in the morning.  If I can be walking by 6:15 that would be awesome.  It appears that the weather will also be glorious.  I am, of course, expecting muchos peregrinos!

Easy to see while it's referred to the Church of the Conch.

Here's to the life giving Spirit!
Here's to the way of St. James!

Penitent going to Confession before Mass.

Penultimate Day in Pino!

Putting things into perspective

Because I had such a long day yesterday, today was a rather light walk, about 3 1/2 hours.  I had reserved a hotel fearing that I might not find a room at the inn as things got more crowded.  God is Good!  I am in garden patio posting this.  It is simply gorgeous.  The cool of yesterday is still with us as the sun reaches full mast.  I'm in a bathing suit because I asked the hotel if they wash clothes and even though they don't normally offer that service they are washing mine as we speak.

Beginning the journey for the second to last day.

I was rather distracted on the path today.  It was near a highway so that was a factor.  I am also aware that the Camino ends tomorrow and that looms large.  But also most of my crowd has passed ahead of me.  No, it's not that I am slow.  I'm rather quite fast on the trails (the New Yorker in me)!  But the longstanding tradition is to complete the Camino Frances in 33 days or stages:  one for each year of our Lord's life.  That simple act has helped keep me united to Him in the midst of some many other blessings I have received these past five weeks.  The Camino is so much to so many.  For me it's an appreciation of God's goodness past and present.

The second ass I've encountered on the Camino-
At least strictly speaking.

I find it strange how for 500 miles there have been references to "The Apostle."  That's James, of course.  But when I was in Rome "The Apostle" was Peter, and if it was plural, "The Apostles" were Peter and Paul.   If nothing else the Apostles were human.  The Apostles were us!  Sadly, many loose sight of the human nature of Our Faith.  Whether it is the heresy to deny the humanity of Christ, or the inability to appreciate, and at times, to forgive the humanity of the person next to you in the community of believers.

It seem as if Mother Nature beckons us onward.

Many pilgrims on the Camino long for a community that is perceived lacking in their world.  Most enjoy the shared goal of Santiago and the shared experiences especially from varied histories.  What I find rather ironic is that is the Church summed in one word.  But so many have stopped looking there or after searching they simply don't find it in their own local experience.

A new landscape to a common purpose.

Tomorrow will be a busy and exciting day.  Besides arriving in Santiago where I hope to concelebrate the Pilgrim's Mass at noon, I learned that on Fridays at vespers the great censer is used:  the botifumero!    After Vespers (the first Vespers of the Solemnity of Ss. Peter and Paul, Apostles) I'll meet Bruce, Stephen and John for a celebratory dinner.

Lilacs on the roadside.

Saturday, I might go to the "end of the earth."  "Finisterra" is what the Romans called the Western coast of Galicia by the Atlantic Ocean.  As far as they were concerned after that there was nothing.  From my perspective I hope that New York still exists!  There is a chance I will go by bus for the day to meet Richard for lunch.  He will continue his walk beyond Santiago.

View from my window.

As I write this on the hotel patio a group of 11 German teens from Fribourg show up with 2 chaperones.  They will be joining me here for the night.  Sadly it is tough for groups to get assured reservations in the albergues this last week so they have to resort to hotels or camping sites.  They began in Sarria and will end Saturday in Santiago with an evening return flight to Germany.  One of the things lacking in the States is this form of shared adventure for young people.  Not sure I could ever take a group, but as I look West to Santiago and beyond to "the end of the earth" I can assure you I will always be a faithful ambassador for the "Camino Frances."