Azura in Autumn!

A Sea of Spanish Teenagers! 

 It was only a matter of time.   But today I walked part of the Camino in Autumn.  Yes, I know these are the first days of Summer in Galicia but no one sent Mother Nature the Memo.  I walked 18/19 mile today in pure Fall weather and it was simply splendid!

I left Palas de Rei at 7AM and it was chilly as it has been.  But soon the breezes began as the sun rose.  I can only describe it as Autumn-like.  The whole time there was a breeze (not a wind) making the leaves rustle.  That noise made up for the youth groups.  They are everywhere now.  I turned the corner and got ambushed by about 50 kids outside of O Coto on the Lugo - O Coruna border.  Honest!  They were gracious enough to let me pass through but I was like Moses parting the Red (and Gold) Sea.

Today was actually one of my longest days of walking time wise.  I was on the road for over 7 hours.  Now that came from three factors.

Parish Church (of Saint Roque?), Melida

First there was the length and topography of the hike today.  18 plus miles is just that.   But there were also several rivers we crossed.   Even though the map said it was a relatively flat walk, you go down and walk up from every river crossing.   No fun!

Second I stopped several times to get my "Pilgrim's Passport" stamped.  Each of us has a document to keep track of where we have been along The Way.  When we get to Santiago we will get a document saying we completed the Pilgrimage.   But we have to prove it first and this is exactly what this passport does.  I have plenty of stamps already after almost five weeks.  Now I am just trying to fill in the whole thing.  I have been stopping at each Church to get its seal in my passport and that takes time.  It's about 20 minutes to get the pack off, get the seal, say "Hi" to Jesus in the Blessed Sacrament and get going again.

Sanctuary of the Church of Santa Maria, Melide.

Third are people!  Sometimes it's the crowds on the path (like the youth group I had to swim through).  Other times it's someone you know inviting you to sit for a bit for a cafe or a Fanta.  This all take time.

Thankfully the path today had ample tree coverage.   It really helped out as I was still walking towards 2PM.  Not my style.   And it was not lost on several of the pilgrims who now me know.   They all thought I should be showered and having a drink!

Statue of St. James
Church of Santiago, Boente

Ironically, for my 20th Anniversary as a priest I am concelebrating Mass at a church that is not much older.  St. James in Azura is a very modern church.   Maybe the youngest on the Camino.   In the midst of all this history, I just thought that was funny.

It warmed up a bit today but there i still a crispness in the air.  I hope it will continue to keep me awake and aware the next two days.

Two of the youngest peregrinos yet!
A Mexican couple with their two boys.

Camino Royal

Worker loading bags into a car.

As the Camino is having resurgence, not every Camino is the same.  First of all for most it is no longer an exclusively Catholic experience.  Like society many who walk to St. James are not adherents to a particular Church: not to mention the Roman Catholic Church.  They are looking for something.  But what?  Many are young and idealistic.   And in a very selfish and individualistic world it is the community of the Camino that they seek.  For others, the beauty of creation beckons them to the hills, and valleys and streams.  Yes, even mountains beckon to be climbed.

Making the Camino is strenuous.  It was difficult back a thousand years ago.   It is today.  But even though there is one woman that I have come across making the Camino on horseback, we have changed.  So has the way of making the Camino.   Here are some observations of what I like to call “Camino Royal.”

One of the many companies that provide service to the pilgrim.

First of all is the business side of things.  As it has been from the beginning, many people make their livelihoods off the Camino.  They provide services that are needed, expected, demanded.  Here are some ways of making a “Camino Royal.”

You can have your bags picked up and sent from stop to stop.  There are companies that pick up bags at your hotel and bring them so that they await you at your destination.  I wish I would have known that before climbing the Pyrenees.

My faithful mochila!

Besides the moving of bags there is the moving of people.  Each town has taxis that are dying to take pilgrims from point A to point B on the Way of Saint James.  Not only do they wait, they also advertise.  Even more than hotels and albergues are the advertisements for taxi service along the way.

Of course people have to stay somewhere.  And while the Camino Frances is the best supported with infrastructure of all the routes with albergues, sometime people want more and so there are hotels and hostals and casas rural etc. to put them up when they need a little more or a little less of others.

Besides sleeping, people have to eat.  Food is good and brings people together.  Along The Way pilgrims will buy groceries and cook for themselves.  They also will go to coffee bars or restaurants.  Even Michelin rated restaurants!

Cyclist Support on the move!

Finally, I want to mention the cyclists, many of whom use support services.  Those support services can be very elaborate.  Cyclists can have there bags taken from destination to destination, be follow or preceded by a support truck and even have lunch prepared for them at a predetermined place.  They tend to stay at 3 or 5 star hotels.  What can be most irritating is the lunch though.  A support person will begin setting up for the peloton an hour or so before they arrive at choice picnic tables somewhere not allowing others to use that spot.  They set up at time can be elaborate:  table cloths, coolers, dishes and utensils.  The whole nine yards!   So that when the cyclists arrive they have (and have paid for) a veritable feast!

Ah! Camino Royal!

Patio Populorum!

Church of San Tirso, Palas de Rei.

The patio in front of the cabins at La Cabana is quite the hotpot!  No only did I work on my tan, but I also got to meet some great people.  You see, La Cabana was the first nice and open place after the forest trail.  In addition to the cabins, there were also two albergues attached.  So it was quite busy.

Pilgrims' Monument in Palas de Rei.
(Unfortunately St. James never showed up to give me directions!)

First I had met a couple from Iowa I had yet to see.  Even though Chris and Jessica left the same day as me from St. Jean I don't recall meeting them.  First, they did not go over the mountains in the snow;  second, I got the impression they were not using the albergues, but rather were staying at hotels and casas rural.  Nevertheless, they were good chat and we laughed a lot.

Eight year old Ramon gets some needed energy after 24K
while his grandfather holds court in several languages.

As they were leaving, Richard from London arrived and bought me a beer.  He is a half day in front of me so while I was done for the day he till had another 5-7K.  He hopes to get involved with the arts and film.  We chatted about that some.  I think he has a wonderful disposition and is so easy to talk to.

After Richard left a Spanish man and his grandson arrived.  I got an email from a friend who only did the last 100K of the Camino and said I was harsh on the latecomers.  If I was it was not intended.  Juan and his grandson are a perfect example.  Even though the Camino is packed with kids, it's also an opportunity for families.  Of course, it's easier for the Spanish - this is there backyard after all, but there are others a well.  Juan spoke perfect English and his grandson was not far behind.  They had a full day beginning at Portomarin as I did.  But Ramon is only 8 years old and his legs don't reach as far as the rest of us.   He was tired.  And so was grand-dad at 71.  But they both entertained us on the "Patio of the Peoples."  It was wonderful to watch how they interacted with so many.

I was there for the whole afternoon and so I met Francesco, a guy in his twenties, from Florence in addition to a mother and her daughter from Livorno in Italy.  We had a great time and they were most generous regarding my Italian.  In an hour or so we chatted about everything (Camino, Religion, New York, Italia, Laura Palsini {an Italian singer} and Berlusconi!).  I really had a great time in a great setting.  We all should arrive in Compostela on Friday.

It seems like there are more sheep in this area than in others

After a Burger for dinner (which I usually don't do), I left more people on the patio as mañana comes quickly on the Camino.

Palas de Rei - A Cabin in the Country!

The Reservoir Belesar as seen from Portomarin.

I left Portamarin at the ungodly hour of 6AM.  Part was I was awake.  Part wa that I was told the roads and trails are just going to fill as the morning unfolds.  So in the predawn light and fog I set out down from the city to the reservoir and trail.  Strangely at 6AM I was not alone.  The fog disapated after coming down from the town and I was on my way climbing from around 300 meters to over 700.  It definitely warms you up in a hurry.

Will & Vanesa from Holland via Switzerland stop for morning coffee.

The first half of the hike was on trails and the second half was on what the author of the guidebook calls quiet road.  I love that the bet.  Blacktop is my friend!  It must be the New Yorker in me.  Anyway I was in a good place.  Along the road I met the Dutch Couple from Switzerland and we chatted for a bit.  I spent a good hour walking with Italians from near Bolzano in the north.  There were 9 of them.  2 in the car and 7 walking.  There Camino began in Burgos.  But because of time constraints, they are doing it in 10 days so trains and buses, as well as their rented car, are also involved.

After the fog burns off; beauty!

When I got to the outskirts of Palas de Rei it was just after 11AM.  I had done a good 5 hour of walking.  I could have gone further but I had reserved a cabin in the campground outside the city centre.  It was nice and peaceful there and it allowed me to catch my breath.  Additionally I am in no rush to finish this Camino so I tend to be doing less rather than more.  I liken it to a good book.  At the beginning and especially at the end you read fast but at the end you slow down because you don't want it to end.

A bull on the way takes interest in the pilgrims.

The plan is still to arrive in Santiago for the 28th and celebrate the Solemnity of Ss Peter and Paul on the 29th.  So I have three days to go 43 miles.  No problem at all.  Now I get an afternoon of rest watching other pilgrims pas by before I say Mass in the cabin.

The village of Palas de Rei from a distance.

Tomorrow is an 18 mile day before the next reservation making the lat two days relatively light.  But I will still start well before sun up so as to avoid the crowds and confusion that can distract from so much that was experienced and enjoyed so far.

A castle of pine trees appears across the valley.

Rock Art - Camino Style!

Rocks are everywhere on the Camino and can be quite troublesome.  Tripping over or rolling over rocks are a great source of pilgrim injury.  Wet rocks especially on hills invite slipping.  Over the past four weeks I have seen as pilgrims make rock art as well.  It basically is the stacking or grouping of rocks.

Historically, rocks were part of the Camino in two ways.  First, was the building of the Cathedral in Santiago as pilgrims brought stone for the project from all over Europe.  Second and more widespread was the carrying of stones for the added weight of penance on the journey.  A someone who rips pages out of his guide book I can affirm every ounce counts!

The rocks today for "Rock Art" are found and not carried here.  Where they are most abundant you find the most art.  But you have to get pilgrims to stop to make the art.  That usually happens after or before climbing hills as they catch their breath.  It also happens at very beautiful vistas or scenic areas as people take time to behold the beauty.  Lastly, it happens where pilgrims take bathroom break and those walking with them have to wait around.

Below are just some pictures I took of what I call "Rock Art" Camino Style.

Portomarin

Bonfire in waiting.

Still smoldering the next morning.

I left Sarria at 7AM.  It was clear that there was a party all night.  In fact, the bonfire was still smoking.  I heard the fire works exploding around midnight.  I later saw Arkansas Sarah and he said he stayed out until after 1:30AM and the party was till going strong.  Albergues by rule have a curfew.  Many relaxed that curfew so the pilgrims could go to the festivities.

One of the tree covered trails on the way to Portomarin.

The walk was wonderful.   The weather could not have been better.   It was varied.  And there were not any steep descents until the last 5K.  At the end of the hike was something that we had yet to see:  water (as in a lake, or more specific, a reservoir).  It felt great to feel the cool breeze off the water as we approached the lovely hilltop village of Portomarin.  It was relocated in 1962 to make way for the reservoir.  In fact the government moved some buildings, the 12th century church of St. Nicholas included, stone by stone.

Arkansas Sarah gives a thumbs up despite half a night's sleep.

As expected the trails were much more crowded.   In fact there are two Spanish youth groups that were beginning their Camino.  Each had about 25 kids (Ouch)!  I did all in my power to pass one.  Theirs was more of a party atmostphere with the excitement of the first day and so they were doing a lot of fooling around and noisemaking.

Bruce (Louisiana), Martin (Madrid) and John (Illinois) resting
before  Bruce and John set out again.

Upon arrival at Portomarin, I got my bed and went to the main plaza for lunch where I ran into many familiar faces.  Most of the younger folks were continuing on to the next town about 10K away.  I was content to enjoy some chat and good food before a nap and evening Mass.  I already met the priest (I had to ask for directions) and found out he is a visitor covering for the pastor who is on vacation.

Portomarin as it sits above the reservoir.

Sunday in Sarria

Pilgrims filling up at the fountain outside of San Xil.

As I began my journey to Sarria (Population 14,000) I had a choice of two paths.  The longer one passed the Benedictine monastery of Samos the shorter one was along more natural paths.  I chose the shorter route and was pleasantly rewarded.  The fewer K certainly did not hurt my feet.  But the greater reward was the terrain of the path.  It reminded me of upstate New York.  The forest, streams and hills looked so much like the Catskills or even the Monroe area where I used to spend summers with my aunt and cousins.  It was so refreshing to walk through.

I Love New York!:  Am I entering the Catskills?  

I arrived in town as Sarria was celebrating its town feast of John the Baptist this weekend.  In fact I just arrived in time for the "Running of the Bulls."   I must say it was both comical and pathetic compared to the videos of Pamplona.  But at least I can say I was there.  Besides the "Bulls," there was a street fair by the river and a night concert.  I will be tucked in bed by then for sure.

Glimpsing the Bulls.

There was a special Mass in the Church of Santa Marina which I missed.  I looked around the old city and then had lunch.  I met a lovely Dutch couple who were headed back on the road after eating.  Arkansas Sarah joined me for some very entertaining conversation.

Sanctuary, Santa Marina Church, Sarria

I went for Mass at San Salvador in the evening.   I'm not sure if it was because of the large liturgy earlier or the fair but it was almost exclusively pilgrims and not many at all.

The Torre, Sarria.

Before calling it a night I went up to the "Fort and Tower" park where the night concert will take place.  At 8PM there were only musicians practicing.   It's going to be a late night in Sarria!  On the way down I ran into Richard.  He got a late start and took the longer path so he arrived around 4PM.   We walked down to the river fair before parting ways.

Festive flags flying at City Hall.

Tomorrow is an early start to Portomarin.  There are only five days to Santiago.  I just hope there is room!

Albergues are filling earlier and earlier now.