A Long Hall to Hontanas

Detail of Puerta Santa Maria, Burgos

I set out early (6AM) after my two night stop over in Burgos.  Originally I was planning to stay at Hornillios del Camino.   But once I got there.   I was not impressed.   I decided to hunker down and make a total trip of 21 miles to Hontanas.

Hontanas did not have much more but it was a "Pilgrim's Paradise."  There were 3 alburgues with over 150 bed total.  There were grocery stores, bars- al the facilities a modern day pilgrim needs except Wifi which was down.

Finally out of Greater Burgos.

The journey was taxing with some hills and 21 miles I think is the longest I have walked so far.  It was done under threatening clouds.  I walked pretty much the whole way on my own - passing and being passed as the occasion merited.  Here I was introduced to some of the mesetas of Spain.   I will be with them for a while.

For a difficult as its length was, I was rewarded at the end of my journey.  Just after I checked into my albergue and finished my shower I heard this rushing water which I thought were more servicios on a third floor.   It wasn't.   It was the sound of a tremendous downpour.  The village built on a hill had water cascading through the streets.  It was unbelievable.   I was so lucky I was undercover.

The rolling green vistas of the meseta.

Others weren't unfortunately.   They came in looking like extras in a disaster movie.  You could only feel bad for them.  Luckily at least my albergue had washers and dryers.

After the downpour people started to come out and share war stories of where they were when the heavens opened.   I met up with the Virginia Tech Twins  who also had made it dry.

Ruins of a 15c Pilgrims' Hostal.

I had my main meal and a real problem:  Mass.  The church is closed on Thursdays and Fridays.  I could say Mass surely, but where?  There was no space in the albergue.  With the help of a Spanish couple who have been going to Mass at the various places they found me hotel dinning room where we had a very intimate bi-lingual Mass for three!  It was wonderful.  They had a daily Mass book and did the readings and I had my Ibreviary prayers.

After Mass it was an early night after a long day.  The only consolation is tomorrow's walk is 12k less.  I can sleep in and have breakfast!

Camino Flora

As I spend a rest day in the very beautiful city of Burgos.   I thought it might be a good time to show some of the different wildflowers I have seen along the Camino.

Here are some that I have passed along the way.   I have no idea what they are called:

Buen Camino!

Burgos is Beautiful!

Tomb of San Juan after Mass & Pilgrims' Blessing.

On the road early from San Juan.  I left at 6:20.  Today's route is longer and ends in a large city (170,000) which is always difficult.  Burgos is about 17 miles away with just one 100 meter climb.  Again it was a gorgeous morning.  But I want to add something wonderful that happened last night.

Pilgrims' Blessing in English.

At the Pilgrims' Mass at San Juan there were only pilgrims there about 25 of us. The priest was an older man a little reserved and did not deviate from the book.  The only strange thing was the offertory hymn which was sung to the tune "Blowing in the Wind" for all you Peter Paul and Mary fans out there.  After Holy Communion, the priest invited all of us over the the tomb of San Juan for the pilgrims blessing.  While he read the very beautiful prayer in Spanish copies were provided in about 8 languages which cover all of us.   I think the majority were English-speakers.  It was an even more wonderful ending to a glorious day.

Sunrise

Back on the road I did most of my walking with Chelsea and Amanda, theVirginia Tech Twins.  They are both very impressive young ladies.  I was thankful that I spent the time with them.  The walking and chatting did slow my pace considerably.  What I thought was going to be closer to a five hour stint was over six.  It was a long hall.

Pictured at 3, 510 feet in front of  the Cruceiro.

Luckily, today is a double stop over in Burgos which means I'm in a hotel room tonight not too far from the Cathedral of Santa Maria.  Burgos is by far the most beautiful city in Spain I have seen so far.   It is on both sides of the Arlanzon River with square after square filled with people.  In the afternoon while walking around I had to ask a lady if today was some holiday because there were so many people and families out.   Her response:  "No, this is Burgos!"

Museo Marceliano

As with so many places before, the historic city is mostly a walking mall closed in by the ancient walls of the city.  Central to it all is the Cathedral.  A big minus though is it charges an entrance fee.  Like in Santo Domingo and other places there is an entrance fee to enter the cathedral as museum.  I will not pay it.   Most places let you in free for Mass.   Here they have an entirely separate place for prayer that is open in the morning and evening.  So while at Mass at the Cathedral light night I never even saw the Cathedral!

Statue of Our Lady with Cathedral in Background.

I had a lovely lunch outdoors in front of the Cathedral for $20 (a little pricey but worth it).  Then after siesta I went for a great walk (I know!) for about an hour and a half.

Side view of Cathedral from my lunch table. 

In the evening many of us bid farewell as Hal returns to the States tomorrow.

Statue of El Cid. 

Lastly, while I know I will be up at the crack of dawn tomorrow.   It's wonderful to know that I am not going anywhere but sight-seeing.

Fountain in front of Convention Centre.

Burgos is Beautiful!

San Juan de Ortega - The Camino of My Dreams

Church of Santa Maria, Belorado
Notice the storks in their nests on the tower.

I woke up in a chilly Belorado:  39 degrees.  But it was different.  There was no rain in the forecast.  In fact there was not a cloud to be found.  So I packed my rain jacket and kept my pack cover off as well.

Warmest day so far and still snow is in the mountains.

I set out from the albergue at 6:55.  It was a little later than planed.  I quickly met up with the Spaniards who have “Rocky,” the dog I showed you the other day.  It was chilly especially as the sun was only beginning to climb.  But then we began to climb as well.  The mountains of Oca were before us.  We would climb in total 450 meters and at times descend as much as 100 meters and then go back up again.

Outside of the village of Espinosa

It was rigorous but it was done on a beautiful day.  With the climb, many pilgrims, myself included, removed coats and sweatshirts.  A good number prepared by the favorable forecast had set out in shorts.  The sun climbed in the sky beckoning us to climb the mountains and when we did we were rewarded with delightful weather to walk some of the level stretches.

For a bit I walked with a man from Seattle, Hal.  He’s probably in his mid sixties and is an avid hiker all over the world.  He was sharing with me his secret to getting fed at night in the albergues (I think I mentioned that I have my big meal around 2PM and just an orange at night).  Hal can’t cook.  So he buys a few bottles of wine at maybe $2 a bottle and then hangs out in the kitchen.  He shares his wine and others share their food.  With my limited cooking skills, I’ll have to try that in the future.

The Gentlemen from Ravenna.

I left Hal and managed climbing and (even worse) descending the mountains on my own.  After some beautiful scenery and a well deserved rest.  I joined one of the Italians from Ravenna and a Spanish man as we walked the last hour or so into San Juan de Ortega.  He had a pretty lively conversation in Italian, Spanish and English about weather, food and wine.  It was lively because the two both thought their food or wine was the best.  The weather was just about what we endured and how different today was.   About noon upon entering San Juan (which has 20 inhabitants!) you see a square with the church where San Juan is buried, an albergue where we stay and a bar where we eat.  It was beautiful with the centuries old buildings on one-side and pick-nick tables in front of a stream on the other.  Many of the tables by the bar and under the trees were beginning to fill.  So the two men invited me for a few beers as we wound up or conversation and began new ones as other we knew rounded past the church into the square to join us.

The facade of the Church of San Juan de Ortega.

After a bit the two continued with a group that included our mascot, Rocky” for the next village 4K away.  But I was content to be with San Juan and this lovely setting.  After I got my bed I went to the bar for lunch and had the opportunity to dine with two lovely sisters, twins in fact, Chelsea and Amanda from Northern Virginia.  They had graduated from Virginia Tech less than a month ago (one with a degree in biology and one with a degree in political science) and here they were in Northern Spain.  I had met them earlier in the rain and mud back leaving Roncesvalles for Zubri but no one was in a chatty mood back then.  After a decent meal for a bar, we headed for sun or shade as one wished.  Mindful that Mass and Pilgrims’ Blessing is “early” at 6PM.

The tomb of San Juan.

This is how I imagined the Camino to be.  Now that the weather is cooperating I hope people will be in a better place to enjoy themselves.  Tomorrow I hope to get an early start on the 17-mile stretch and 100-meter climb to Burgos.  Burgos is one of the places I will stay two days.  Many others and myself have hotel reservations since you cannot stay two nights in an albergue.

Ah, a real hotel!  Ah, the Camino of my dreams!

Belorado - Talking the Camino!

Remnants of flowers in the street the morning after the Corpus Christi procession-
Village of Recidilla del Camino 

I slept in a little today as I got a 7AM start to Belorado.  All the festivities of yesterday were well gone.  Certainly it is quiet on the road.  There is a sound of silence to borrow from Paul Simon for a bit.  I must say I have relished hearing birds and streams.  The sound of rain or wind can be deafening at times.  My own sounds; at times panting or the beating heart have been profound to me.  Even the animals and their noises have been so present as we walk the road.

An Italian man and a Spanish couple talking on the road.
The dog is going all 500 miles too!

But there are other sounds too!  People are laughing or chatting along the road; sometimes even singing.  The Camino can sound like Babble, at times, as peoples speaking different languages strive to express themselves.  I was little help the other day when two Spanish-speaking women (who led me in circles) were trying to get a point across to the two men from Ravenna that I had previously walked with.  Even though I couldn't help they just kept getting louder.


Sometimes it is small talk that is exchanged.  That's usually how it begins:  "Where from?"  "Nice day" "You think the sun will ever come out?  Often it's Camino themed the exchanges regarding villages, weather, albergues, or feet

Statue of "Our Lady, Protectress of Pilgrims" over the south portal of the church
 in Recidilla del Camino facing the Camino path. 

But what this chatter does is "shrink the world."  It's a reminder that there are so many common concerns and experiences that are shared the world over.  Asians, Africans, Americans, Europeans or others have so much more in common when push comes to shove.  One of the best forms of talking I have found is smiling or laughing.  That more often than not gets the proper point across.  The people I have encountered so far are joyous and positive.  I guess they must be to walk (part of) 500 miles.

Crossing into the Castile and León Region.

But those conversations seem to evolve over hours, days weeks as people become more familiar with each other.   Larger issues seem to surface.  I overheard two young women (one from upper Michigan, the other from Canada) talking about wearing the same washed clothes for a week.  One said "I could never get away with that back home."  "I know, right!"  exclaimed the other one.  But then a conversation began about simplicity and what we really need.

Couple holding hands as they walk the way.

Some of the talking does not take place between strangers, but spouses, friends or families.  In a hectic world how many people have the luxury to spend talking for hours as the pilgrims do on the road.  This "Talking the Camino"is an opportunity for strengthening ties and maybe re-ordering priorities.  It's strange how people talk about "not talking" and yet the opportunities are always there.

Beautiful Landscapes outside of Roncesvalles.

The last type of talking on the Camino is prayer.  Prayer is offered more than some would think.   I've seen rosary beads in the same hand as a walking stick.  I've heard couples reciting the Divine Mercy Chaplet.  I've heard God's name evoked as landscapes have revealed God's Handiwork or Rainbows, God's Covenant.  In ten days of journeying, I've had the chance to hear a confession and join each evening with a core group of pilgrims who attend daily Mass.

Facade of the Church of Santa Maria, Belorado.

In all of these instances the Camino gives one the opportunity to listen and to talk; a rare commodity in our hectic world.  While I was worried about walking the Camino for months now.  Perhaps it's greatest gift might simply be the talking.

Corpus Christi in Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I should have known I was in trouble when I saw the movie screen,
Daily Mass Chapel-Santa Maria Real, Najera

Last night I posted in Najera before going to Mass.  It was my worse experience at church in years.  More sadly it was the anticipated Mass of Corpus Christi.   And if every cloud has a silver lining, the priest cut so much out that we were out of Mass in less than a half hour (with singing).  So my "Very Good Day" didn't end very well.

Look at the 7:15AM Traffic!

I slept in an extra 20 minutes and was on the road to Santo Domingo de la Calzada by 6:50.  It was threatening and overcast but again not a drop!  The walk was a relatively short one:  little over 13 miles and a climb of about 250 meters.  I was done in 4 1/2 hours.  I think I figured I'm going about 3 miles/hr with climbing hills, descents (which are much worse) and about 25 lbs on my back.  I wasn't alone in arriving before the alburgues opened at 12.   But they did let us leave our backpacks so we could see the village.

Approaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

What I found was a village humming because it was the feast of Corpus Christi and everyone was getting ready for the Mass and Procession through the streets with the Blessed Sacrament (bands and decorations included).  I was most impressed with the floral "carpets that were made (at least 20 that were spread on the route to honor the Lord in the Eucharist.  Mass was at 1PM and so I made sure that I got my bed, showered and returned well before.

People preparing the streets for the Eucharistic Procession.

I was concerned that this might be another church disaster when the only entrance to the church was through a kiosk like at a movie theatre:  4 euros to see the church; 5 to see church and museum!  When I told the man I wanted to go to the Mass he let me in free.  Thank God Mass is still free.  Because of the chaotic nature of the day (choirs, servers, ushers, First Communion Children it was by far the craziest sacristy I was in.   A young priest, Carlos, greeted me and said the bishop was saying the Mass.  I wanted to leave since I was in my flip-flops but he convinced me to stay and had me vested before the bishop arrived.

One of the 20 or so "carpets" over which the Blessed Sacrament and faithful passed.

Mass was great.  The bishop mentioned me and the other pilgrims in the spirit of Santo Domingo.  The procession was not super large but it lasted almost an hour ending in the main square next to the Cathedral.  After Mass I went for my meal (so did everyone else) in one of the crowded restaurants.
It was just a great day to be Catholic and made up for yesterday for sure.

The band.

This town is named after a saint who spent most of his life helping pilgrims to Santiago.  He took care of pilgrims and built a lot of infrastructure almost a thousand years ago for the route I am walking now. Of course those roads and bridges have been done over thank goodness.

The last Altar with the Blessed Sacrament.
(I only took this picture when Fr. Carlos took his - see his raised camera).

Najera - It was a very good day!

Pilgrims' Monument in Logrono

I was up early to leave Logrono and head to Nájera.  It's about a 19 mile go with some good hills so the sooner you start, the better it is (for me at least).  But I didn't get a good start.  At 6:30AM with the sun yet to rise I couldn't find the Camino!  I somehow got turned around.  Twice!  Once on my own and then the second time following two Spanish women whom I quickly left when I saw a young german guy shooting down a side street.   He was the key out  of the place and soon enough there were a gaggle of pilgrims in tow at least to the city limits.

Approaching Navarette

The more ancient part of Logrono has seen better days though they try to keep up the very touristy area.  But the apartments and parks we passed leaving were gorgeous.   So I was on my way!  There was basically two towns that were en route.  One was Navarrete.  It was a beautiful little town perfect to have a coffee in.  As I mentioned earlier I like to leave early and get to the next town by lunchtime which in Spain is 1:30-3PM.  That is precisely what happened.  I was in the albergue by 1PM to wash up and rest before dinner.

Remnants of a church and pilgrims' hostel outside of  Navarette.

I put on my "post-walking" attire which is shorts and sandals, a long sleeve shirt and my rain coat and went to find a quiet place for lunch.   I always try to get away from the albergues and the tourist parts of the village if possible.  I found a place that just had one other table taken at 2PM.   I ordered the "Pilgrim's Menu" and had a wonderful meal (Spaghetti with Bolognese Sauce, Steak with Fries, Ice Cream and Red Wine).  Almost all restaurants have a daily menu (1st, 2nd, Desert, bread, and water or wine) for a set price.  The "Pilgrim's Menu" gives us a discount.  So today the weekly daily menu is 10euros; weekend is 13euros.  The "Pilgrim's Menu" is only 9euros.  That $5 or $1.50 discount does help wen most of us eat one meal out for 35 days or so.

The route passes Ventosa as its parish church sparkles in the breaking clouds.

But I said it was a good day.  While I was eating the restaurant began to fill up.   Next to me two men sat down and one of them recognized I was a pilgrim.  He said some things in Spanish that I tried to answer about where I started and the terrible spring.   He wished me good meal (Bon Provecho).   And I could hear him saying stuff about the Camino to the other person at table.  When I went to the bar to pay, the man said my meal was taken care of.  The older man had paid for it.   It was a good day.

Historic Najera as seen from the bridge.

Actually, I said "it was a very good day."  Today was the first day of my walking that there was no precipitation along the way.  No moisture got on my glasses.  I never took out my rain coat.   Not a drop.   Now it threatened all day and looked awfully ominous but no drops hit me.  I cant speak about before or after I passed.

Najera was a royal city in the 11th & 12th centuries:   the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre before it expanded.  There are about 7,000 people living here.   And of course they have a river, the Najerilla.  It also had a prestigious abbey that was eventually all but taken from the Church.  The church proper remains as it is the burial place of several of the ancient monarchs.  I plan on concelebrating the Mass there at 7PM.

Najera against the imposing mountain backdrop.
Notice the small cross at the summit. 

Tomorrow the walk is only 14 miles to the next stop and I assure you I will scout the route out of town  before or after Mass tonight.

It was a very good day.