Roncesvalles to Zubiri

My Shadow on the road after I escaped the Witches' Forest.

I slept like a baby after the mountains and the elements on Friday.  As I awoke on Saturday it had been raining and there were clouds in the sky.  I had time to say some of my prayers and then I was out the door at 7:55AM.  I met up with tree french women as we plodded through the mud together.  These Europeans mean business.   Most carry walking poles (not the traditional pilgrims' wooden walking stick, these are light weight aluminum) and they know how to use them.   Give way!    I stayed with the three ladies until we stopped to read a sign saying we were in the "Witches' Forest!"  I needed to get out of there quickly before I got turned into a frog!

I quickly found an American man and an English college student and walked with them for a while.   The poor English kid was one of many who got stuck by the weather.   He only had what best could be described as a "sandal shoe."  It wasn't loose or cheap but it had holes in it and caused him great grief in the snow.   As a matter of fact he was stopping at the first pharmacy with its flashing green cross illuminated.   I could not keep up with them as the rains started to come down harder.  So I fell into "loner mode."   It made no difference.   You don't talk much in the rain and you really had to be attentive to footing in the mud.   Again it was not much fun.

I meditated for a while on the millions who have done this before me.   Not just people I know but pilgrims through the ages who had much less support than we do making the camino today.  I also thought of the craziness of modern like.  I "had" to leave Friday in the storm.  I had a reservation made!  Other around me can only do the pilgrimage up to a certain date.   They have to go back to work or whatever.  Worldly constrains imposing on a special adventure for some; a devout pilgrimage for others.

I was planing to go a little further but the mud more than the rain stopped me so I checked in at the municipal albergue in Zubri.  Zubri has a roman bridge, pilgrims, a church and a nearby stone quarry.   Virtually all employment come from the stones and those who travel over them.

The Roman Bridge of Zubiri (photo taken before Mass)

There are three albergues in town.  Mine cost 8 euro for the top bunk in the dormitory.  These alberges are only for pilgrims.  No tourists and are to house us on the way to Santiago.  They have rooms of varying sizes and are unisex.  Mine room had 11 bunk beds for 22 people all way too close to each other.   After you get your room you try to settle in as best as possible.  I got a sandwich and an orange at a local store and wobbled around some.

It's a strange sight as almost everyone gets their boots and wet clothes off as soon as possible and then (after the sun finally came out) wonder around in flip flops and shorts as boots and plants are left out to dry.  So read, some nap, some walk around and chat or visit others at the other two albergues.  Not all albergues are the same.   And I'll post about that later.

Monsignor "warming up" the congregation before Mass.

Mass was celebrated at the local church of Saint Stephen at 6:30PM.  Almost the entire congregation was pilgrims.  The retired Monsignor who said the Mass was feisty at 84.   Not only did he give a decent homily about the Most Blessed Trinity, he was almost as animated as our Deacon Franklin.  Before Mass he came out and got us singing and lead the songs during the Mass although not all the practiced songs were used.  After the closing song to Our Lady, the Salve Regina, he asked all the pilgrims to kneel for an additional blessing.  It was very much appreciated after a long day.

I skipped dinner but tried to stay out in the sun as long as possible.  Then up in the bunk and asleep by 9PM.