Climb Every Mountain!

Main Street of the Medieval Outpost of Saint Jean Pied de Port
The Pyrenees and Spain in the background.

“Climb Every Mountain!”  All you Rodgers and Hammerstein fans will quickly recall the play and subsequent movie “The Sound of Music.”  Well, as far as I am concerned the only mountains I am worried about are the Pyrenees and in particular the Roncevaux Pass.  Unfortunately, the weather forecast for Friday, my starting day for the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, is rain.  Oh, wait!  is that snow!  I have to go to the Pilgrims' Office before dinner for the latest reports.  There are two routes:  the more ancient, scenic and steep (Napoleon) Route and a more modern road.  I plan and hope to take the first.

Camino Sign indicating the estimated time to the next two pilgrim stops.

As I begin the Camino Frances (the route I am taking from France) the first day, everyone says, is the most difficult.  The overall route is just under 500 miles while the first stage to the Spanish town of Roncesvalles is about 13 miles.  It’s not because of the distance but the elevation that is covered:  almost 4,000 feet.  Practically thinking it’s walking up (that’s right up, not over) about thirteen football fields.  The guides say it takes about six and a half – seven hours.  The very helpful woman at the Pilgrims' Office said I should plan for eight.  I’m less worried about the time and more worried about the size of my backpack, which is still well over twenty-five pounds.  This week I have been trying to shed unnecessary weight.  I am looking at everything long and hard questioning if I really need it.

Pilgrims' Office, Saint Jean Pied de Port

At the end of last week I visited for the day Saint Jean Pied de Port, the Medieval French village/outpost that is the traditional starting point of the Camino Frances.  There must have been twenty to twenty-five pilgrims on my train alone.  It definitely heightened my excitement for the pilgrimage.  There were people clearly older and younger than me in the crowd.  I was feeling great until I saw the path and mountain.  All I could think of was telling one of our high school sacristans how I needed to get in shape.  It’s amazing how time flies.

They say the Camino Frances is the best marked and supported of the various routes to St. James’ Shrine.  I sure hope so.  While I will have a better idea of the schedule as it pans out, I expect to be on the road walking by 7 or 7:30AM (just at sunrise).  I hope to walk to my destination each day by 3PM to check into the pilgrims’ hostel.  Wash; rest up a little before my Holy Hour then Mass at 8PM, dinner, then bed.

Camino Marker indicating "The Way!"  

I doubt I’ll find my “dream” on the other side of the Pyrenees, as Julie Andrews sings.  I just hope to find a dry and comfortable bed and the promptings of God’s Spirit as He walks with me on the way.