Bastille Day in Montpellier!

Tomb of St. Roche, Camino Pilgrim
Church of St. Roche, Montpellier

Towers of the Cathedral of S. Pierre
Seen through the Medieval Streets of Montpellier.

I'm in Montpellier for the fete nationale du France.  It's a beautiful Sunday and I was up and out early walking around before Mass at the Cathedral.  Montpellier is truly a gorgeous city.   Most of the tourist places are open for the holiday, especially the restaurants.

17th Century Arc de Triomphe, Montpellier.

I had morning cafe-au-lait near one of the scenic park areas before heading to Mass at the Cathedral.  What a mistake concelebrating that Mass was.   There were only 27 people at the 12noon Mass in a Cathedral that sits 4, 000!  The priest, though very kind and interested in New York, was here visiting from Africa only for the summer.   His French was only a little better than mine and his words were lost in the cavernous echo of the Cathedral.  It was not very celebratory.

Statue of Louis XIV
Place Royale du Peyrou, Montpellier.

After Mass I did two things I love doing.  I took a walk in a park (the botanical gardens [the first ever created in France] to be precise) and I had a lovely Sunday Pranzo to celebrate Bastille Day.  It seems like the entire historic section of Montpellier is closed to traffic.   That's like the size of Queens Village.   It's awesome for someone on foot like myself.

Fountain of the Three Graces
Before the Comedie Opera House, Montpellier.

The streets are filled with locals and tourists.   It's a very festive mood.   I think it all culminates with a free concert and fireworks tonight.  I can't wait.

Interior of the Cathedral of S. Pierre, Montpellier.

After lunch I finally got the chance to congratulate and welcome Father JunHee Lee to Incarnation.   It took me a while to track down his email but that does not damper my excitement about having him in Hollis and Queens Village.  I have been working on his assignment since last October.  He will be great for the parish and I know the People of Incarnation will love him this summer and beyond.

Newest Priest of the Diocese of Brooklyn!
Father JunHee Lee
Incarnation's own for the summer.

I see that it's been warm in NYC these past days.  Maybe slowing down in the heat isn't the worst thing.  I know it has been beneficial for me.   Everyone needs a holiday.

Medieval entrance to the city, Montpellier.
(Street is where ancient moat used to be.)

Happy Bastille Day!

Vive la France!

Medieval Gate to the city, Montpellier

Adios Espana! Bienvenue a France!

Platja del Miracle, Tarragona

  I took some lovely resting days in Tarragona, Spain before crossing the boarder back into France.  Tarragona is on the Mediterranean coast.  It is a perfect location with the city on the hill that leads down to the beach.  I'm not the only one who thinks that.  The ancient Romans did when they founded Tarragona almost two millennia ago.

Tower to the Roman Preatorium, Tarragona.

The city's history is layered:  Roman, Medieval and Modern.   I was most impressed with the Roman Ruins.   An amphitheater right off the water would make any modern developer drool.  The aqueduct till amazes me as to the craftsmanship of the ancients and the forum is just a reminder that people were created to be together.  There were also remains of the procurator's palace.

Remains of the Procurator's Palace, Tarragona

Medieval structures consisted mostly of the cathedral, some historic buildings, and the city walls.  The cathedral was most impressive especially the cloister.  It was simply beautiful.

Cloister and Cathedral, Tarragona.

The cathedral also had a sad introduction to the modern era with a plaque listing over 75 priests from the area who had died during the civil war at the start of the last century.   But the modern also consisted of a concert hall on the Rambla Nueva and some other buildings and the refurbished port.

Roman Amphitheater along the Mediterranean, Tarragona.

I was able to get some good walking in along the beach.  It was great walking without 25 lbs strapped to my back.

Medieval portal and wall, Tarragona.

From Tarragona I crossed to Narbonne, France.  A lovely little village just off the coast.   Again so much effort was put into the public spaces here.   There is a great walkway along the canal.  Narbonne's Cathedral is only a portion of a church - the top of a cross as you will - of a cruciform church.   It was never completed and yet it dwarfs most churches at home.

Narbonne also has Roman Roots as the statue of
Romulus and Remus being nursed by the wolf remind us in the evening twilight.

Yesterday there was a train accident here.  Six people died and twenty more seriously hurt.  I love train travel.  And I am paying the price as it is more expensive than air these days.  I don't think of it as dangerous but I forget at times how fragile life can be.   Tomorrow I will be in Montpelier for Bastile Day.

Park along the Canal de la Robine, Narbonne.

Vive la France!

Cathedral of St. Just et St. Pasteur,  Narbonne.

A Birthday in Barcelona!

Plaza Real near my hotel.

Twenty Years ago I visited Barcelona with two friends from Scranton during the month of February.  I said then that I would return during the summer.  Well I finally got that chance and can't say I was disappointed.  The weather was gorgeous and I got a chance to visit and walk along the beaches.

Interior of St. Mary of the Sea Cathedral, Barcelona.

In all honesty the crowds were intense.  It reminded me of Shea Stadium back when the Mets won the World Series in 1986.  People were everywhere and happy for the most part.  The largest crowds other than just walking around down La Rambla were for the Basilica of La Sagrada Familia:  Anton Gaudi's crowning achievement which is still under construction.  I've seen hundreds if not thousands of cathedrals in my years but never a church like this being built.  It is special and while I hate paying for to enter churches I felt this was different as it's still under construction.  When I first visited in 1995 Mass was only offered in the crypt.  Last year it was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI.

Architect Anton Gaudi's Crowning Achievement. 

I didn't say Mass at La Sagrada Familia but at the Cathedral.  Everyone was very welcoming but that still does not mean it was not problematic.  Most of the Masses are offered in Catalan and not Castillian which is what we use in the States!

Basilica of the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona.

So on Saturday I celebrated my birthday.  I began on Friday night with a big meal at an Italian restaurant near my hotel.  It was a soup to nuts affair.  At first I was not happy to be seated next to the piano but I actually enjoyed it as I guessed all 12 of the selections that he played.  They were American and some Italian songs, but mostly American.  Some were easy (Hotel California, The Piano Man) others were more difficult (John Williams' theme from Jurrasic Park or Andrea Bocelli's Sogno).  It was fun.

Fountain in the Plaza Catalunya, Barcelona. 

Today was mostly just walking around.  I was a little burned from the beach on Friday.  Plus I concelebrated both the morning and evening Mass for Sunday.  After the Saturday night, the Cathedral was swarmed by some marching groups as there was some Galician Festival.  It was fun to watch as the people danced in front of the church as band after band came marching around the corner drums and bagpipes blazing.  Leading the procession was, of course, my good friend after five weeks Santiago!  After their special Mass, the procession of groups actually came right passed my hotel two hours later!

Statue of St. James leading the way.

After dinner and some ice cream.  I called it a night.  Tomorrow I am off to the seaside town of Tarragona which has surprise, surprise Roman roots.  I also head into another year after celebrating a birthday in Barcelona.

Bagpipers arriving at the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Sea.

Zaragoza on the Fourth of July!

Church of St. Felipe, Zaragoza

 I was up early for Mass at the Cathedral of Our Lady of Pilar and to continue visiting at least the old city before I move on.  "Me gusto mucho!"  Not only do I like morning Mass when traveling permits it but I think Zaragoza is a hidden gem of Spain.  It should definitely get more recognition.

Cathedral-Basilica of NS de Pilar, Zaragoza.

After 8AM Mass (which had a great crowd - 200+) I had a coffee at an outdoor cafe near the square before getting a better look at things.  Unfortunately while the cathedral is till a place of prayer many of the other churches are museums or quasi museums.  But their outsides were quite beautiful to behold.

Municipal Building,  Plaza NS de Pilar, Zaragoza.

The city as almost all I have been to has Roman roots and ruins.  It is situated on the Ebro river.  Over which are some beautiful bridges.  The river also ha walking paths or promenades on both sides.

Monument to Goya (Favored son of Zaragoza)  Plaza de NS de Pilar.

After checking out the old city I ventured out to the new past the McDonalds and Burger King.  It was filled with people going to work at the tram and bus stops.  From my vantage it seems Zaragoza is weathering better than other places the financial downturn in Spain.

Old Cathedral of San Salvador, Zaragoza

Another train ride will bring me to Barcelona.

Church of St. Isabel, Zaragoza

Happy Birthday, America!

Interior, Cathedral-Basilica of NS de Pilar, Zaragoza

Bilbao and Zaragoza - Return of the Cities!

Church of Santos Juanes, Bilbao.

 If you have been following these entries you are aware I like churches and public spaces or parks.   Bilbao and Zaragoza both had their fill.  Of course Bilbao is famous for the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum.  The museum building, and its imposing location on the Bilbao river, is equally impressive as the art it houses.  Its opening also is a turning point in the history of the city.

Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao.

Bilbao has a small “old city” with some churches and noteworthy buildings.  It should be a paradise for kids playing hide and seek in its winding streets.  I celebrated Mass at the very beautiful Santos Juanes Church built in the 17th century.  Outside the church were shops, cafes, restaurants.   I love the energy and variety of a city.  

An historic house along the river park.

Prior to that I had a great walk along the river park to the Guggenheim.  Even on an overcast day there were many locals out and about.  The museum is built to resemble a ship.  The whole area was dilapidated after the ship building industry left Bilbao.  The museum actually helped turn the city into a tourist destination.

Interior of the Basilica of Begonia.

Before catching an afternoon Mass I visited the hill top basilica in honor of Our Lady, the Basilica of La Begonia.  It was filled with faithful.  After which I came across by accident the Church and Park of the Encarnacion.

The Arriaga Theatre, Bilbiao.

Zaragoza is also a surprisingly beautiful city.  I got a chance to explore it as the sun was setting.  Its old city is very compact and the street were packed with visitors and locals.  I wish I had more time.

Window in Bilbao central train station.

Leaving Leon - Turning Tourist for a While!

Church of St. Nicholas, Bilbao

Waking up I was greeted by a beautiful morning sky and I equally left the hotel for a café con leche and a pastry in the Cathedral Square.  The city was coming to life under the sunny sky and I was happy to be a part of it.  I had nothing on the agenda before catching my train to Bilbao.  Well, almost nothing.  Certainly I wanted to return to St. Isidore’s for Mass.  They had been very welcoming.  But I also had to take care of my pilgrim’s beard.  It was just so much easier not to shave so I stopped trying to do so about the second week.

Bilbao River (actually a tidal estuary) flanked by river walks. 

This being my first beard in my almost 46 years, I was told that I couldn’t take it off myself without special equitement etc.  On the way out of Leon the last time I remember seeing a men’s haircutting place on the Camino Path.  So I returned.  As I looked in the window Julien was waiting for me like a patient grandfather.  He lead me to the chair and in the mix of languages (and the assistance of another barber), it took him a moment or two to realize what exactly I wanted.

Night view of the river.

I told him that I had just finished the Camino after 33 days of walking and three weeks of not shaving and that this was my first barbershop shave.   Julien showed me the packaged Gillette razor blades before he began as if that was to reassure me.  It was wonderful to get my face back!  Not only did I get my face back but I did so for a celebrity barber.  With my apprehension of entering the barbershop I failed to see all the pictures, letters and citations Julien has received.  He is/was a barber for two presidents (or was that prime ministers) of Spain.  He showed me pictures of famous people (he said) and citations from the government.  It was interesting to say the least.

Plaza Mayor, Bilbao

The train to Bilbao was late, long (5 ¾ hours), hot and loud.  The only consolation was that this time I wasn’t crossing the mountains on foot in the snow.   Bilbao is a genuine city and I could feel my excitement building as we began to pass its suburbs.  At the station the pace and mix of people announced to me I was home.  Well, kind of.  I checked in the hotel and got a quick look around before the sun set and then of course dinner:  Chinese food at 10PM!

Then to bed as a tourist again.

Plaza Nueva, Bilbao

Sadness in the Skies

The "statue" of Ghandi limbering up to do nothing outside the Cathedral of Santiago. 

As I left the hotel to catch my train out of Santiago the sky was covered with clouds.  In fact they were the first clouds I had seen in over a week.  On my train ride through Galicia I watched as it began to drizzle.  The first rain I had experienced in Galicia during the entire Camino route through there.  It was fitting weather that captured my melancholic feelings now that I am leaving Santiago after parting with some wonderful people.

Train Station, Santiago de Compostela.

On the way to the train station I saw the two Canadian Ladies from outside of Calgary.  From across the plaza I heard shouted at me:  "The things you see when you don't have your gun!"  I took that as a sign of endearment while exchanging kisses with them knowing that there will be no more "run ins."  Bruce and John left this morning too:  one by air, the other by rail and air.  Only Richard will remain till Wednesday or Thursday.  My impressions from yesterday is that they were also sharing both gratitude and melancholy.

Closed bar/restaurant, Leon. 

The train to Leon stopped at two points along the Camino Route:  Ponferrada and Astorga.  The Ponferrada station is not near the Camino path while the Astorga station has a Camino bridge right over the tracks.  I craned my head by the window to watch the poor pilgrims, six in all, ascend the ramps in the 80 plus temperature before they began the climb to the "old city."  I thought how lucky they are!

An Empty Plaza Mayor, Leon

Upon arriving in Leon even that had seemed to change.  The last time I was here it was brilliant blue skies and seas of weekend revelers in the winding streets.  Today is a cloudy Monday with empty streets and closed businesses as they observe weekly rest.   It reminds me of the song from "Les Miserables" Empty Chairs and Empty Tables.  That wasn't too cheery a number either.

Like a "Twilight Zone" episode:  no one!

I did go to St. Isidor's for my Holy Hour and will return for Mass tho evening.  This was the welcoming parish I had found my second day here last month.  I'll probably return tomorrow at noon for Mass before leaving for Bilboa.



I'll return to tourist mode for a bit now before returning to Benedictines of Solesmes and then to Paris and my time with the Little Sisters of the Poor.  The posts might slow a bit as it has been an intense five weeks.  Besides I don't like posting when I'm filled with melancholy and there is Sadness in the Skies!