Monday, August 12, 2013

Sweet Switzerland: Camino 2.0

Basilica of Notre Dame de Geneve.

 This week I had the opportunity to visit Switzerland.  First, I spent the day in Geneva and then I spent three days in Basel with Selen and Simon, the newlyweds whom I met in June on the Camino de Santiago.



The Cantons' Flags wave in the wind on Ponte de Mont Blanc, Geneva.

I had visited Geneva as a student twenty years ago in the wintertime.  This time it was gorgeous to see it on a crystal clear summer day.  I was also there during the two-week summer festival that follows the Swiss National Day on August First.  The Swiss Federation was celebrated in all its glory as along the Ponte Monte Blanc, the flags of the twenty-two cantons waved in all their glory.  French-speaking Geneva is very much a multi cultural place with its many financial and international organizations.  The festival centered along Lac Leman seemed to bring even more people to the city.


The "Jet d'eau" in Lac Leman, Geneva.

Geneva is the city of Calvin.  It played a large part in the Protestant Reformation.  Sadly with the religious wars, Catholics were exiled and the Cathedral S. Pierre was made a Protestant Church.  Catholics were only able to worship openly in the last 150 years or so.


Water fowl use Isle Rousseau to escape the currents of the Rhone River, Geneva.

After a lovely Asian lunch I spent some time with the ducks and geese on the Isle Rousseau in the center of the city where the Rhone River begins before moving on.


The Rhine River as viewed from Basel's Cathedral Park.

I had no plans to visit Basel until I received an invitation from Selen and Simon.  I had a tremendous time, as they were as gracious in their home as they were on the Camino.  The visit also changed how I viewed Switzerland, as it was the height of summer.  Switzerland was no longer just a winter wonderland.



Town Hall, Basel.

As with so many of these ancient cities, the life-artery of Basel is its Rhine River.  The city is situated on both sides and the river is used for both commercial boat traffic and recreational swimming.  It’s quite the hot spot as people stroll and dine on its banks.  They treated me to a lovely Italian meal as we watched the sun set behind the red tilled roofs.


 
Newly Weds use the ferry to cross the Rhine from Basel Cathedral.



The following day we took a day trip to Bern, the Capital of these Helvetic States.  Simon grew up in Bern so he was an expert guide.  Switzerland’s neutrality through the years, especially during the Second World War spared it from the destruction of battle and preserved its ancient buildings to be enjoyed in the present day.



The Federal Palace, Berne.


The river that gives life to Bern is the Aare.  It is a bright turquoise as it winds through the city.  One of the summer past times of the Swiss is river "floating or surfing",  you could call it, as they jump in the river (sometimes off a bridge) and get carried by the winding river through the city to get out at a point further down stream.  As we stood on the banks, we saw old and young alike shoot by in the gorgeously glimmering currents at about 12k an hour thoroughly enjoying themselves.  While I was very much tempted and had my bathing suit in hand I thought “river surfing” might wait for a return visit.


Simon and Selen glow in the radiant Swiss Sunlight.


We had a lovely lunch at a café by the Rose Garden, which is on a hill overlooking the city.  Not only did it give us a panoramic view of the old city with its Aare river winding through it, but it also gave us an opportunity to reminisce about our shared Camino Pilgrimage as we climbed first up and then down the cobble stone path to and from the café.


The Aare River as it passes through Berne.


Berne, like Geneva before it, was also having its summer festival.  As afternoon stretched into evening we swam our way through the crowds as various artists performed, games of chance were deciphered, and savory smelling local delicacies were being prepared and consumed.  Heading back to Basel as the sun set, we were treated to wonderful thin crusted pizza at a local eatery all as they shared with me interesting and engaging conversation.

View of Berne's Old City from its Rosegarten on the hill.


For my last day in Switzerland, it was Basel’s day to shine as it had its half marathon throughout the city.  We walked around the city and along the river spying both runner and swimmer as they darted by.  There was certainly a tangible liveliness even as so many have fled the city for the summer holiday.  Before seeing me off at the rail station for my return trip to Paris, Selen and Simon insured I had a typical Swiss meal.



People cooling off as they float by in the Aare River, Berne.


A few August days completely changed my impression of Switzerland.  It is no longer the place of cold and chill.  Quite the contrary after a few summer days and gracious welcome of some newfound Camino friends, it will always be remembered as a place of sun and warmth!

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