A Pal in Paris!

Fountain, Luxembourg Gardens, Paris.

This past weekend I was very blessed to have a classmate from Scotland stop down to Paris for the weekend.  Father Gerry was ordained on the Fourth of July and is no stranger to the States.  In fact he has visited me both at St. Clare’s and Incarnation.  He also helped a few summers at Corpus Christi parish in Woodside.  While still a seminarian over twenty years ago, I was very warmly welcomed by his family in Scotland.

Les Invalides, illuminated from my front door.

He arrived in Paris on Friday night and brought with him a break in the heat.  Gerry spent a month studying French in the “City of Lights” so he was in no rush to wait on line for Notre Dame or the Eifel Tower.  We spent most of Saturday together at a Brasserie and met up again the next day where at his suggestion we bought a bottle of champagne and two plastic flute glasses and headed to the Luxembourg Gardens to watch the world go by on a lovely Sunday afternoon.

Christ in Judgement, Central Portal, Notre Dame du Paris.

Besides being good chat, Gerry remembers everything:  probably too much.  He also reminds me of the passage of time.  We were in school together over twenty years ago.  That definitely makes me feel old.  Nevertheless, it is always wonderful to visit with him and to share priestly fraternity.

Tour d' Eiffel illuminated, Paris. 

Paris

View from around the corner of my Paris Residence.

I arrived in a sweltering Paris yesterday.  Parisians don't do heat well.   Luckily most Parisians have gone for holiday.  Nevertheless they have been replaced by loads and loads of tourists.  I don't really consider myself a tourist-strictly speaking- since I have been privileged to visit Paris at least ten times beginning when I was in high school.  I won't be standing on (m)any lines as I have done most of that before.  What I will be doing is walking.  Paris is a great, great if not the greatest walking city thanks to its 18th century layout.

The Assemblee Nationale Building, Paris.

While in Paris I will be staying with the Little Sisters of the Poor at their home near Les Invalides.  Originally, I was supposed to be closer to the Luxembourg Gardens but work is going on at there home there.

The Senate Building as seen from the Luxembourg Gardens.

While here I will see some friends, one a classmate, a priest from Scotland, who is arriving tomorrow.  He will be here for a very warm weekend.  I also hope to use Paris as a hub visiting some other places with my rail pass.  One of those highlights will be visiting a couple from Basel, Switzerland that I met on the Camino.  It will be great to see Selen and Simon in their "natural habitat."  Hopefully Switzerland will be cooler than Paris.

Musee d'Orsay a een from across the river.

For obvious reasons, the tragic rail accident near Santiago has greatly saddened me.   I know it cast a pall over the city and its celebrations for the feast of St. James.  Certainly it is a cause for prayer and remembrance.   I hope all the pilgrims I encountered returned home safely.

Sun sets on the Church of the Val du Grace, Paris. 

Posts will be a little more sparse now as I do not have wifi and the photos that everyone likes might be added when I get too a place (other than a coffee bar) that offers wifi.

Summer at S. Pierre

Monastic Flower Garden, Solesmes.

I arrived for summer in Solesmes.  So much has changed since I left in April.  Everything is in bloom or past bloom.  The daylight lasts longer and France like most of Europe is in a heatwave.

Village Garden, Solesmes, France

After walking 500 miles, I'd imagine by now you realize that I like to walk.  The people from St. Clare's can attest to that as I used to tell them often in my homilies about my walking in Manhattan.  Well, I can honestly ay my favorite walk is the 40 minutes it takes to get from the train station in Sable-sur-Sarthe to the Abbaye S. Pierre des Solesmes.

Abbaye S. Pierre des Solesmes.

Along the river with the cool breezes;  the kids fishing, the occasional boat passing all enhance the joy of returning to the abbey.  There are gardens and little country houses all adding to the lovely setting.

Window of One of the Side Chapels, S. Pierre. 

As I arrived this evening in the village around 18:30, there was a van entering the side gate of the monastery.  As I looked over out popped Father Michael, the Guest-master and lone American at S. Pierre.   It was great timing.  He let me in and after I got settled we had a chance to catch up before dinner with a lovely chat in the gardens.  He is such a wonderful person on so many levels.

Niche with Statue of Mary Greeting Visitors to the Abbaye Church of S. Pierre.

When I went into the retreat house to join the other guest for dinner I saw Garret, the seminarian from Minnesota  whom I met during Easter Week.  He was walking down the stairs.  He's spending just a few days at the monastery before heading to Paris to study French.  Among other things we exchanged emails.  I hope we can get out for a meal, at least during August.

View of the Monastery,  Solesmes.

After dinner and exchanging greetings with two other monks I've come to know it was night prayers and bed along the Sarthe River.  A splendid place to be in any season.

Tomorrow I head off to Paris!

Finisterre: The End of the Earth?

The Quai, Rennes.

World War II Memorial, Brest.

I love the ocean.   I always have.  As I arrive in Brest, the Finistere des Francese,  I am just reminded how much I do.   As I write this there are seagulls screaming outside my window.  Brest is more a working port than a beach resort; it is also a port for the French navy. But for the visitor, the smell and the sounds, and the sights are tremendous.

French Navy Ships and Ramparts in the Harbor, Brest.

Finisterre; whether in Spain or France, is the furthest west you can go on continental Europe.  The ancients saw it as the "end of the earth,"  hence the name.  For me it also marks the end of a journey.  Beginning tomorrow I begin my return home.  First I'll go to revisit the Abbaye S. Pierre des Solesmes to retrieve my suitcase and get a change of clothes!  Then on to the Little Sisters of the Poor in Paris for some tutoring.  

 

View of the Port, Brest.

Brest seems less French than other cities I have visited.  Partly because of geography.  Partly because of history.  Geography because Brittany and Brest have been part of other nations and cultures.  History because the bombings from World War II particularly, have necessitated so much rebuilding.  Everything is like 50-60 years old.  

Modernistic "Flower Holder" in the shape of a tree, Brest.

But the freshness in the air is very much appreciated.  France, like New York is in a terrible heatwave these days.  A forecast tonight in the low 60s is a welcome reality.  I'm thrilled since I don't have any AC!  

Modern Church of St. Louis, Brest.

Tomorrow morning I return to Solesmes to pick up my bag and prepare for Paris and my visit with the Little Sisters.

The Chateau, Brest.

Bretagne

Cathedral of Ss. Peter and Paul, Nantes

 I had the opportunity to go from Orleans to Brittany where I visited Nantes and Rennes before going to the Atlantic coast and Brest tomorrow.

Moat & Park, The Chateau, Nantes.

The two things that strike me are that both Nantes and Rennes are relative new-comers to France.  They were added to the Kingdom way after Clovis and the Franks.  Nantes boasts its chateau and Rennes its Parliament.  The cites and region have also had a turbulent history both with religious and secular wars.  Most recently in World War II where there was extensive damage first with the Nazi invasion and suppression of the resistance and then with the allied bombing before the invasion of Normandy.  (I'll make a separate post about that later).  Rennes had the added burden of a fire that burned down almost half the city.

The Prefecture, Nantes.

The two cities are of nice size and the weather has been great.   It's holiday time here now so there are people and families everywhere.

Fr. Marcel, doing his Nostradamus impression, greets a parishioner after Mass. 

I found some beautiful churches, but unfortunately I found more churches that are being used for other purposes.  Mostly art galleries.  Nantes was exceptionally lively.  It is a larger city of the two and one of the fastest growing in France.

Some of the surviving wooden buildings from the great fire, Rennes.

I found a lovely parish in Nantes for Mass:  St. Nicolas.   I concelebrated three times there.  The priest, Fr. Marcel, was very welcoming even though he looked something like Nostradamus!

The Romanaque Cathedral of S. Pierre, Rennes.

As a New Yorker I love France because it makes me feel at home. There are no skyscrapers (though Nantes does have a building [The Tower] that ha almost 30 stories-lol), but there is a lovely mix of ethnicities from recent and long ago that make up the people of France.  Such diversity does not hurt the menu choices when it's time to eat either.

The Ancient Parliament of Brittany, Rennes.

Tomorrow I head west to Brest, the Finisterre of France before heading back to Solesmes to get my suitcase and head to Paris.

The Hotel de Ville, Rennes.

The Trials of Orleans!

Post War Stained Glass Windows,
Saint Pasteur Church, Orleans.

Yesterday I had an ambitious trip from Provence on the Mediterranean coat of France back to Orléans and the Loire.  It would have been a long hall on a good day never the less:  up to Paris, changing rail stations and then down to Orleans.  But the train accident I mentioned the other day knocked out all the train to Orleans!  So I was stuck at Gare Austerlitz with hundreds of my closest friends trying to get to Orleans.  After a few hours we got on non-air conditioned busses in the 90+ heat for the two hour ride.  Ah, the joys.

Statue of the "Maiden of Orleans."

Upon arrival and a much enjoyed shower I went out to find one of the main squares with the iconic statue of the Maid of Orleans completely under construction!  The next morning when I arrived at the Cathedral it was restricted because there was a funeral.  Now, this isn't getting burned at the stake but it was frustrating.

Joan of Arc saved Orleans -
Now her statue watches as it is rebuilt.

Once things settled down, Orleans is a very beautiful city that sits on the Loire River.  The Cathedral of the Holy Cross is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, both inside and out.  Much of the city was bombed by the allies in the Second World War as the Nazis used strategic Orleans as a hub.  Joan of Arc's house was demolished but I visited a post war recreated house that was very informative.   Luckily the Cathedral was preserved.   That being said, most churches in the city have post war stained glass windows.

View of Holy Cross Cathedral from
Rue Jeanne D'Arc, Orleans.

I was able to celebrate Mass at the XI century church of the Roman Soldier Martyr St. Donatus.  They have a gorgeous Daily Mass Chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Salette.  After lunch I had a lovely walk along the Loire River Walk.  It is much more rustic than many other cities.   It also had great tree coverage which was very much appreciated in the heat of the day.

Window of St. Joan at the Battle of Orleans,
Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Orleans

After a little break I'll go to the rail station to see if my train to Rennes tomorrow is effected.  Then dinner, of course!

Ancient Bishop's Palace, Orleans.

Statue of Our Lady of La Salette,
Church of St. Donatus, Orleans.

Restaurant Etiquette!

Entrance to the Ancient Roman Amphitheater, Arles

 I got schooled in restaurant etiquette today in Arles and I am much the better for it.

Place du Forum, Arles
One of the many dinning venues.

I went to one of the top 20 places to eat in the old city of Arles for lunch today.   Recommended my my hotel, it was already packed when I showed up as did two other men (a New Yorker and a man from Provence).  We chatted a bit waiting for the waitress to check on tables.   (It seems nothing is fast in France when it comes to eating).  When she returned she said there was only one table left. While me and the other New Yorker looked up wondering who was really "first" the French man simply looked up and suggested "Shall we sit together?"

Medieval Portal with Ramparts, Arles.

I had a wonderful meal in France with two Jewish architects!  The New Yorker, Joshua, was visiting for work purposes.  He knew Claude already but they weren't currently working together.  Claude has been to New York several times and met his wife in Brooklyn of all places.  They actually were in Brooklyn and just got a flight out before Sandy hit last year.

View of the Cite Ancienne of Arles from across the Rhone. 

So what did a priest and two Jewish architects talk about over lunch?   Well first about studying abroad.  Joshua's son will spend a semester studying in Copenhagen this fall (Mid August - Mid December) and I was able to talk about the benefits of studying and subsequently traveling while in Rome.  Then we talked about churches.  First, how so few are being built these days and second how they are no longer monuments to God.  It was interesting how their perspective was so faith-filled even though neither of them were overtly religious.  "Churches should be worthy of the Divine!"   How about that!

Church of St. Blaise?
One of the former Churches of Arles now an Art Gallery.

I did squirm a bit in my seat when the clergy abuse scandal came up.  The institutional Church no longer has any credibility in theirs and so many other eyes.  "The people are the Church."   I pointed out.   But they countered with "the people are believing in God but not going to Church anymore."  I had to cede their point especially here in Arles.   There are at least 10 church buildings in the old city that are now art galleries.    I don't know what the exact arrangement is (leased, sponsored, sold) but they are galleries not places of worship.  But they are not places where Mass is celebrated.

Church of Saint Julien, Arles.

Speaking of etiquette, the last thing that made me squirm was when Claude pointed out that there were three men wearing hats inside the restaurant at table (one a cowboy-like sun hat and two with baseball caps) in this quasi-Michelin rated restaurant.  As we quieted for a moment Joshua and I realized together that all three were Americans.  "Father, I'm a Jew," Claude said.  "But I know you don't wear hats in churches nor in restaurants!"  So I learned you can share a table with a stranger- Just don't wear a hat.  I couldn't agree more.

The Ancient Roman Baths, Arles.

Arles

Regional Judicial Palace, Montpellier

Statue of Louis XIV - The Sun-King, Montpellier.

On Sunday night I went for the concert and fireworks in the park as planned.   Montpellier is a gorgeous little city:   very clean and hospitable.  But unfortunately I did not take my camera for the festivities.   I just thought it would be better left at home so I have no pictures.  It wasn't New York harbor on the Fourth but it also wasn't crazy crowded.   The fireworks lasted for a half hour (11P-11:30P- Ugh!) and there was classical music before and Pop music after (which I did not stay for).  Yeah, they were gearing up for a late night/early morning party.

The Arena (Colosseum) in Arles still hosts events today.

Up early today I headed to Arles.  The hour long train ride was packed as people were still moving around for the holiday.

The Forum, Arles.

Arles has all the ingredients for a city I should like (Roman roots and ruins, medieval structures, the Rhone River) but I don't really seem to.  I think it might be Vincent Van Gogh's presence.  I have nothing against him.  I enjoyed the museum immensely.  No, just some of his artsy followers just seem a little filled with themselves.  It's hard to put a finger on it.  But there is something very upper class regarding the visitors here.  It's also very crowded as we move further into summer.  You would never know that Europe is in a financial crisis if you see the filled hotels and restaurants.

Camino Marker - Arles

Camino Marker - Montpellier

Camino Marker - Arles

Speaking of visitors, Arles, like Montpellier, is part of one of the pilgrim routes to Santiago.  I spotted a "yellow arrow" and I had to do everything in my power not to follow it.  There were also more elaborate metal markers.

The Hotel de Ville, Arles

Lastly, it's been hot!   I know it's hot at home.  But there has been a heatwave here too.  It's been in the 90's for about a week.  I have been out in the morning then a break, and then out in the evening.  Thank goodness the French discovered the beauty of AC towards the end of the last century.

The Rhone River, Arles